CBC980ST1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed the hexagon screws. pulled the unit out and wiggled the tabs loose disconnecting them. Installed the new unit-attaching the tabs making sure they were tight. Put the new unit through the opening in the back of the oven and reattached the hexagon screws. Back in business in about 10 minutes.

Unscrewed the stove top and replaced the element.

Ordered the part. Received the box damaged and did not realize the part was damaged until our son came all the way from Columbus Ohio to install it. We ordered another part which came in a timely manner. Even though I reported the problem and told them that we are not very computer literate they still would not accept that the part was damaged until we sent a picture. Our son came back from Columbus to install the new part which took about an hour. He took pictures which I was then able to send. They then asked for a serial number. I had already sent all the numbers from the part but that is when they said they wanted the serial number from the stove. We are elderly and getting that required me getting on my hands and knees to get it near the floor. Luckily I was able to get up. After multiple emails I now have to send the part back. Good luck to anyone working with this company. I will be waiting for them to reimburse me for the defective part.

Had to pull out the refrigerator and put it in the dining room in order to pull out the stove to be able to get to the back of it. Had to take off the back of the stove to get to the wiring for the baking element, so at that point I replaced the broil element at the same time. Not a easy job at all.

Followed the video and it was fast and quick.

Turn off the power at the breaker. Use hex head bit from 4 in one screwdriver or 1/4 inch nut driver. Heating element comes out, take off wire clamps and install new piece. Put screws back in, turn breaker on and that's it!

Removed bolts unplugged unit then plugged new unit in. Put bolts in and unit works great.

UNPLUG the oven. Following what every else was doing, I removed the element first, then disconnected the contacts. The leads on the contacts are not overly long, so I found myself removing cover on rear of oven when reconnecting red and yellow wires. Required removing two more screws with nut driver. Should I have to replace another element, I would remove rear cover first, unplug wires from element, remove element. Reverse procedure with new element.
While waiting for new element, be careful when turning on stove top element. Don't turn on oven by mistake, and when you do it, turn it off as fast as you can.
If you use stove top while waiting for part, don't forget to UNPLUG the oven. Won't be but a day or two. Very happy customer.

I ordered part at 10am on Monday and part arrived at Noon on Tuesday 24 hours WHAT MORE can I say... It was all easy and now I have to cook again, so much for the stove is broken excuse.

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!

less then ten minutes, used a electric screw driver and in a snap, finished, I always buy my parts on line at parts select my stove is old but in good condition except parts give out sometimes and I just order part and keep on cooking.