C236 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

No problem, except the holes in the clips to hold the switch in were so small that the clips would not go over the pegs.
The solution - use supper glue.

Truned off power at circuit breaker box. Removed two screws to access the control panel wiring. Removed several connections to allow to pull wiring harness out for access. Removed lock nuts with combination of needle nose pliers and box wrenches. (it was difficult to find a size fit since nuts were distorted. Pulled old switch out. Inserted new one and new lock nuts. Reconnected loose wires and replaced housing. Turned on power and tested. All was well.

:-) - Just removed the old one and replace with the new one. Nothing to it. Takes 30 seconds.

If you are buying online, i'm sure you know to remove atleast 2 screws! and fit them back. It’s very easy to fix it. Only thing that took time out of the 15 minutes is to push the metallic push nuts! But it was interesting to do that. Partsselect.com is really a good site

Just replaced old with new, it plugs in same as old.

I watched a You Tube video,removed and dismantled the door, installed the new hinge. I forgot to remove the small pin which is similar to a rivet. When I tried to close the door it bent. Eventually, I remembered the shipping pin and pulled it out with any damage. Believe it or not, I had read about the shipping pin on customer comments on PartsSelect...Good luck, it is relatively easy!

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

First turn the power to the cooktop/fan switch panel off. Next remove the knobs used to adjust the temp of the cooking burners. Next remove the vent grill cover of the cooktop. Remove the two screws on the end of the box which houses the fan switch and burner controls. Slide box back and lift the box up. This exposes the fan swithch and burner control wiring. Remove the two wires connected to the fan switch. Remove the two self-locking washers from the two posts which hold the fan switch in place. A screwdriver works well to pry these off. Slide the fan switch assembly out. Slide the new fan switch in place over the two posts (one on each end) to align the switch. Put the self-locking washers which are packaged with the new fan switch on the posts. These can be difficult and a deep-set socket which is slightly smaller that the washers can be used to push them on. Next put the wires to the fan switch assembly on. At this point I temporarily turned the power on to test the fan switch, being careful not to touch any of the wires. If the fan operates properly, turn the power back off. Then replace the box which holds the fan switch and burner controls. Replace the two screws which hold the box in place. Replace the vent grill cover and the temp control knob tops. Turn on the power.

Easily removed the switch housing. After that, the other experiences really helped me as the retainer rings on the old switch would not come off and I broke one of the threaded posts about a eight of an inch from the base. I pried the other one off, more carefully, with a screw driver and a vice grip pliers . I was already to use the "super glue" solution when I luckily found an old nut that fit the one remaining threaded post.

Took less than 15 mins to remove the old switch and replace for the new one.
Works like new!

The only problem was the little push nuts that came with the new part were too small for the posts on the stove top. I had to go to hardware and buy some for about 10 cents that fit. Other than that, everything was great. Great service from this company!

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

The downdraft fan was not running, and there was a terrible smell. I jiggled the rocker switch and the fan ran again, then another arc and the breaker popped, so there was no more power to the unit. I opened the panel under the stove to get at the schematic to get a partnumber. Then I opened the switch cluster using a screwdriver,revealing a black burnt switch, I pulled the terminals off with a plier, then used the nut driver to remove the switch. I ordered a new switch but had to settle for a Maytag. This switch looked close enough to the original. When I got the new part I only had to file the mounting holes a little bit. Switch went in nice and terminals back, closed the cluster, braker back on, and voila the rocker switch turns the fan on/off again. What took me some time was to get the crud out that had seeped into the switch cluster. Submitted by Aedgard de Boer

Disable cicuit! remove 2 screws on control housing, lift housing. Remove retaining washers from mounting posts (a trifle difficult, but drill into them with an 1/8" bit...they'll break off enough to grab with needlenose pliers). Mount & wire new switch. The replacement retaining washers are too small...hold them in visegrips & ream the hole with a larger drill bit. Place washer in a magnetic hex drive bit, align over post & tap with hammer to start them, then use a small socket to tap them home. Screw down control housing. Enable circuit...voila!

Easily removed the housing - difficult part was removing old fasteners from posts - took 20 minutes caerfully using knive, needle nose pliers, screw driver. Used old fasteners - new ones provided were too small for posts.