ATF6500FG0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.

Easy fix for a verry poor designed door catch. Almost purposeful on the manafactures behalf to make it out of cheap plastic Remove 2 screws replace install 2 screws

New part installed as per repair video - no problems.

well i took the dryer off the top took, the 6 screws out that keep the top then took the soap tray out super easy then there was like 5 screws that keep the controls of the washer because the control board is behind it then just did on wire plug at a time the wires are long enuff thank god you do have to move some light things just some clear things but is so super easy the thing that the knob goes on is kind hard to get off but I just pushed it out from the back and thats it done less than 15 min and i took the dryer off the top and put it back on alone super easy anyone could do it cakes and pies

I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.

The replacement of the Shock Absorber Kit was hampered on the right side by a metal box that was mounted just a little shorter than the bottom plastic pin. the deadblow hammer with the dowel worked with all the pins including the impeded pin and the top right pin which had to be removed at an angle. The replacement did not repair the washer - it is the tub bearing which went in a previous washer of a similar model about 4 years ago.

The part ordering and arrival was very easy and fast. Problem with the directions on removing the damaged drum vane. They were not clear directions. Once I figured out what needed to be done it went easy

Screwed the new part back into place.

pulled the retaining ring then unscrewed 2 screws removed the bad switch and unplugged the old wires then hooked them back to the new switch...this was the second switch in approximately 2 years...

Removed front panel and unplugged wire connector to drain pump. Loosened two hose clamps and removed hoses the unbolted drain pump from washer frame. Simple removal and even simplier installation of new drain pump.

It was very good. They should have mentioned about the wire and spring to remove the rubber strip though. Found out about that in comments! Otherwise, very good!

This repair was pretty simple. Unplug washer from electrical outlet and remove hoses. This is a good time to replace the hoses. Removed two screws at the back of the washer to remove the top of the washer. This exposed the faulty valve assembly. Disconnect the three connections. There are two screws holding this part in place. The top one is easy to remove, the bottom one is a little more difficult due to access. Remove plastic retainer plate on back of washer. Remove faulty valve assembly. There are two rubber grommets/gaskets that will need to be removed from the faulty part and installed on the new part. Slide new assembly into place. Secure with the two screws. Replace retainer plate. Reattach power connections. Reattach hoses and finally Reinstall top of washer. Total time was right around 30 minutes.