ASD2575BRB00 Refrigerator - Instructions

I first removed the ice bin from freezer. There were four nut screws on back of ice bin cover that I removed with a screw driver, giving me access to the deflector. The deflector has two prongs that attach it securely to the ice bin, I used a phylips head screw driver to release the prongs from the deflector. I installed the new deflector by placing it through the bottom portion of deflector area, using the phyllips screw driver I engaged the prongs of the deflector into slots on ice bin. There was a hook on the back side of the deflector that went over a metal rod that controls the ice cube release. Then replace front cover of ice bin with the four nut screws and returned it to the ice maker location.

Being a jet mechanic I had to familiarize myself with refrigerators, then after 2 or 4 hours of online studying, opened the door pulled the temp knobs of, removed the panel by gently prying the top of the panel out,then up and out with it. I found tapping on the thermostat shaft or wiring connection started the compressor, verifying my belief it was the thermostat. Don't mess with wiring if you don't know exactly what you are doing and unit is plugged in, you will electrocute yourself!!! I received the thermostat, UNPLUGGED THE UNIT from the house wall outlet, took one screw out of the upper inner wall at the very top to remove cover, one screw at the back top to remove the other cover (at the control vent) for access to remove sensor, then removed 4 screws , 2 front, 2 underneath to drop the housing for defrost timer, etc., and then took 2 screws from thermostat, unplugged wiring from thermostat (3 wires, be sure to put them back on the same place in the new thermostat). Remove old thermostat, slide plastic cover off sensor and slide back onto new thermostat sensor. Be careful not to kink the line or bend it to sharp you will damage it, (use gentle curves when bending it,) and re assemble everything in reverse order. This took about me 15 or 20 minutes start to finish. Plug into wall and watch thermometer to verify success.

changed the starter connected to the compressor

Linkage on the cold-control mechanism in the air diffuser assembly was broken. It was necessary to access the diffuser assembly from both the refrigerator and freezer sides of the unit.
Re-connected the linkage between the diffuser and cold-control assembly; remounted the two combined assemblies . . . refrigerator working nicely now.

Be advised that to do this job, you have to take the ice tray and feeder assembly completely apart. The only tricky part is that the nut, part 31 in the drawing, that holds everything together is reverse threaded. Since it's plastic, you're afraid you'll break it. If you know it's reverse threaded to begin with you can go ahead and apply the required force to get it off.

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.

simply removed wires from the old motor and gently lifted it out by by the metal clips - put the old bracket on the new motor, snapped on the new fan, replaced the wires, reinstalled the shield. All done in about 15 min.

Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!

Just removed old bins and replaced with new ones..so easy, a cave man could do it =)

Same as everybody else on this post. Real easy. Actually, I just wish I would have done it sooner.

That was due to the evaporator blocked by the ice. Check found the defrost timer is okay. The next thing I can think of is to replace the Electronic Control Board which is installed in the fridge side top compartment. Ply open the face cover, remove the nut and screw that secure the EC Board. Pull out the cable, mount the new card and re-connect. So simple. It is back in order.

watched video. Very easy

This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.