AS2728GIHB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

First I removed the three screws in the top hinge that hold the upper right corner of the door to the body of the unit. Then I just lifted the door off of the refrigerator. I proped the door up just long enough to pull out the old pin (plastic) and put the new one in place. Next I picked up the door and set it on the new hinge, and last I put the three screws back into place. It has taken me about as long to type this out as it did to actually make the repair. The part was also very reasonably priced so I purchased two since this items has been replaced previously.

Unplugged the refrigerater from the outlet. Took off the front ice and water dispenser assembly. Disconnected the front panel from the electronic board. Removed the ice and water dispensing cone and installed the plastic/Foam insulator door between the two plastic arm frames.

looked a website removed part found broken item order and installed in 15 minutes, easy simple fix very low cost change

rl

piece of cake . removed the cover - one screw in the switch and back together again - maybe 10 minutes.

Ordered the parts, snapped them into place on the basket and then slid the arms into the holes on the freezer door, very very simple..

The best part of the repair was how easy it was to find and order the part. Instead of searching the parts houses around town I just went to the PartSelect web site, quickly found and ordered the part in about five minutes, received the part the next day at my home and was ready to make the repair. Wow! What a pleasure for something to work the way it was meant to. Removed old switch located by prying out with sharp knife or screwdriver. Don't worry about breaking it or cracking plastic. Disconnect(unplug) wires from back of switch. Replace (plug-in) wires on back of new switch. Insert in location of old switch. Finisheed.

remove the screw on the front panel---

remove old part --- snap the new piece in

replace screw

just snapped the new one in. I am very happy. the part was delivered in just a few days--I was surprised how quickly it was delivered. thank you. I would use your company again.

I joined the front crisper and pan assembly by pushing the connecting parts together against the kitchen counter. They snapped into place.

I used my old parts to determine where the snaps were located and pushed hard enough to connect the parts together.

The grill was a simple push into the connecting area. It was a no brainer.

installed new parts

Disassembled the control facade of the ice maker/water dispenser, then attempted to install the chute cover, only to discover that an arm connecting the chute was broken. Temporarily reassembled the chute with cover, so we can still secure water. Will need to order broken arm to finish the install.

Repair requires the removal of the bottom hinges on the doors. No problem for the refrigerator side, but the freezer side has wiring in the freezer door for the water/ice dispenser, so have some wood blocks handy to prop it up. Biggest challenge is that in the center of the kickplate there is a mounting screw (Torx head) that is behind the kickplate and runs vertically. I removed the old kickplate without removing this screw, just broke the kickplate off. The screw is very difficult to access with any tool. Removal wasn't too terrible because the old kickplate was gone; but insertion with the new kickplate in place was a challenge. I used a Torx socket, but because there isn't enough clearance for the ratchet, I held the socket into place by wedging a large flat blade screwdriver between the bottom of the socket and the floor. I was just able to get my index finger under the new kickplate to slowly turn the socket to fasten the screw. Unfortunately I didn't feel as though I could skip the screw - without it the kickplate sags in the center.

Generally I followed the instructions left on the website by others who had accomplished the repair. (A couple of them are very good, and I don't see the need to repeat their instructions.) However, I had two problems in the process. First, without any clear drawings, I mistakenly installed the ice chute door backwards. The shape of the door back matches the shape of the chute, so I made a mistake. Once I realized the mistake and placed the rubberized side of the door to face the chute, the project moved quickly. Secondly, I faced the same problem that most others cited. The solenoid plunger is difficult to get in the right location on the chute door strike. You must lift the strike out of its cradle, where it is held only by the pressure of the return spring, in order to seat the strike into the plunger flange. Once I overcame those two problems, the job was easy and quick. Thanks for your quick delivery of the parts.

First I removed the drip pan, then removed the two screws behind it which hold the frame. I then pushed up on the frame, the top of which is slotted to fit on two large-head screws. This allows the frame to be swung loose. I then disconnected the flat control cable, then removed two more screws. Replaced ice chute door, but repair didn't work. Repeated this several times. The problem was that I had not correctly affixed the part holding the door to the solonoid pin. The pin had dropped out, and I re-inserted it the wrong way. Be sure that the slotted end of the pin properly engages the chute door holder. This job would have taken much less time if I had more carefully examined the mechanism while disassembling it. Next time I repair something, I'll use a digital camera to snap a few pictures as I disassemble the mechanism.