AKT3650SS Amana - Instructions

Couldn't hook up the wires since the instructions were so cryptic. Ended up fixing old control and re-installed it. Worked fine.

Turn the power off. Lifted the stovetop up and rotated it to stand up in the cabinet. Removed the bottom cover and the knob. Put tape markers on all wires for I.D. reference. Disconnected all wires. Identified knob and detent position of the old switch. You could be 180 deg. out. Unscrewed switch assy. from top and removed. Installed new switch assy. after verifying detent position. Using the helpful diagram provided by PartSelect, wires were attached to the new switch. Attach points on the new switch are in different locations than the old switch, at least on my stove. Some wires will need to be re-routed and stretched a bit to fit but it all works. Turned power back on and tested the elements. All fine. Drilled a hole in the bottom cover to attach a clamp to keep the power cable up and out of the way of pots and pans. The original installer neglected to do this. Installed the bottom cover and set the stovetop back in the proper location in the kitchen counter. Had myself a beer for a job well done! The original repair person said the switch would cost $173.00 and was special order. Then he called back and said the part was unavailable. I asked him if he had checked the Internet and he replied that if I wanted to do a search and find something he would be happy to come back and install it. Let's see, $173 plus, maybe an hour install @ $60? per hour versys $58 for the switch and an hour and a half of my time. I think he's still waiting for my call. Thank you PartSelect.

first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)

I did exactly what your instruction video showed. The most important thing to remember is to TURN THE POWER OFF FIRST.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

Remove top oven door,remove two hex head screws located underneath cook top at the front on both sides,slid the range top forward approx. three(3) inches to obtain access needed to unplug the wiring harness, located behind the vertical part of the cook top,removed the cook top,placing it on a padded table with the glass side down,disconnected the three (3)wire spades and unscrewed three screws anchoring heating element to the cook top frame, replaced defective heating assembly with new. Repeated above steps noted above,in reverse order. And yes, all work was done after power was shut off at power panels dedicated oven circuit.

First, I turned the circuit breaker off to the range. Then, I pulled the range out so that I could get to the screws which held the glass top in place. They were located on the sides of the range. I had to remove the trim pieces on the sides to get to the forward screws. Once that was done, I lifted the glass top, unplugged the wire harness, flpped it over on a protected surface. I noted the numbers on the old coil where the clips held it in place and put the clips on the new coil in the same place. The old wires just clipped on to the new coil exactly as they clipped on to the old coil. I put it all back together and it works great! I am a 70 year old woman who did this all by myself. You young guys should have no problem.

It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.

OMG you have no idea how grateful I am. My husband and I watched your how-to-video and decided that it looked pretty easy for us to replace on our own. We saved close to $200 between the flat fee for a service call plus labor. Thank you very much. We were also pleased how fast our part was shipped to us.

Pulled cooktop up on Counter top and unscrewed the screws around around the cook top lifting the glass top off to get to bad burner.then disconnected wires from old burner lifting burner out and sitting new burner down in the cut outs. I have used parts select for my refrigerator,microwave and oven I can't say enough about how great there website is as well as there service.they have made a customer out of me for life and I have turned a lot of friends on to the site and they love it as we'll.

Shut off 220 volt power to range. Removed two screws for cooktop element access. Used needle-nose pliers to remove power (2) and control (2) lugs and wires. Remove defective cooking element module, replaced. Reverse steps for new unit.

the burners were located underneath the glass top, but i had no instructions on how to remove the glass top, so i spent an hour taking every screw off. finally i realized the glass top lifts off from the front then the repair became super easy. hard part was replacing all the screws, lol

I unplugged the stove and removed two screws on bottom of stove top (above oven door) one screw holding burner bracket in place. Took one wire off at a time and hooked to new burner, tightened all screws back down.

Turned off power, disconnected wires, cut tape on exhaust fan connection, removed cooktop from counter and removed glass top from assembly, removed screws on switch, switched wires from old switch and installed on new switch, reinstalled everything, restore power and checkout new switch positions. Everything worked.

My husband did the repair. It was so easy that I could have done it. He had to remove 3 screws and then hook up the element. Nothing to it!!