This surface element is made for under glass set-ups and supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range. It has an outside diameter of approximately 7 inches (1500 watts), and is a genuine OE...
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Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now. The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work: Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2 Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch. Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch. There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe. Good Luck
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1) 2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire) 3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2) 4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element) 5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element) 6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light) 7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
This is not at hard as it seems; I followed the first guy's story and ignored the colors because mine were different. I did have to split the combined red wires, intimidating at first but once I split them it was down hill. I did have to use the jumper wire.
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now. The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work: Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 5)to S2 Attach the wire from old switch terminal 4 to 4a Attach the wire from old switch terminal 3 to terminal 4 on the new switch Detach the 'compound' red wires from each other. (The ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
I attached common female connectors. Attach the newly split single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
One note:
Before you remove the four screws that hold the four swtiches down make sure that you use a sharpie and mark the switchbox location. You will notice that it is difficult to get them to line up again with the holes in the cooktop.
