AGDS902WW Amana Range - Instructions

I went online to learn what F-3 meant and it said temp sensor malfunction. I ordered the part - it looked the same so I repaced the old one and then the plugs were different. I cut the plug off the old sensor and cobbled together a connection. I powered up the stove and the burners were ok, but the oven appeared dead. about an hour later the alarm went off and it displayed F-1. I figured I needed to order another part, but hit Oven cancel and the display lighted up. I set the clock, heated to 400 and made a tray of cornbread. It seems to work ok, but I need to make a better arrangement. perhaps cut the new part connector off and splice the old connector. I don't like having electrical tape so close to the oven - it will probably melt with much usage. It is working - for now!

I just replaced the missing knob by pushing it
into it's proper place and then I was able to set
the oven temperature.

After removing the oven shelves, the burner cover came right up. The ignitor was in plain sight, and after removing the screws I pulled it straight out so I could get to the wire nuts. After swapping out the old igniter and sliding the cover over the new ignitor, the new piece slipped back into place in the oven. The screws were put back in, and the burner cover and shelves put back, and the oven works wonderfully again.

I found the ignitor was wired in series with the gas valve and wasn't letting enough voltage through to the gas valve to open it. I just unscrewed the ignitor and pulled it out.

First I turned off the gas supply to the oven and disconnected it. I then pull the oven out away from the wall. I then unplugged the power cord. I removed the oven door by lifting it off of it spring hinges. I then removed a lower plate that covers the burner element by pressing in a manner that it popped off. I then located the ignitor and removed 3 screws. All were easily removed. Carefully, I pulled the igniter out and removed the wires from the wires that supplied the current to the ignitor. Installation followed by working the steps above in reverse order.

unscrewed the bracket holding the igniter in place then we pulled the drawer on the bottom out and disconnected the Igniter - then we took the unit out of the bracket replaced it and then put the bracket back into place screwed it in and reconnected the igniter and now it burns hotter then it has since we moved into the house two years ago.
I was worried that it would be a hard long job but was pleasantly surprised when it only took a few minutes.

Took off oven door, took out racks and bottom plate, removed burner assembly disconnected wires, removed old ignitor put new one in holder, connected wires, put burner assembly back, checked if it worked and replaced racks ect..No tools needed.

Al lI had to do remove the oh swith & attach th e new on & push in place
It took about 5 min. to turn off the electric & to turn it back on.
Glen V

I researched the needed part (igniter)and purchased it on line. It arrived promoptly. I called a repair person who arrived and installed the new part. All is well.

Removed old igniter held by one bolt & nut, diconected two leads to igniter. Gas mainifold remained in place during repair. Replaced with new igniter, using old mounting bracket and wire ties. Total repair time 30min, oven repair service wanted to charge $80 just for diagnosis. Total cost of repair doing it myself was $50.

r & r hinge. very poor pivot pin which leads to frequent replacement of hinge assembly, cheaply made, weak spot is hinge pin pivot rivet.

Easy fix, push in the new set button, slight twist and "done". The part fit perfectly and was an exact duplicate of the other set buttons.

F3 = Sensor failure. After reading other stories here it seemed like a quick DIY fix. It was fairly easy, except tham my Amana Model had very short leads to the sensor that made me have to pull the oven out to get at the back. It was still easy, however it did not fix the problem. Ultimately I hired a repair person and they found that the underlying problem was a door hinge that had prevented the top of the door from sealing well and letting heat escape up near the control board. Over the years this had damaged the board, which is old and no longer made and the whole unit was totalled. Bummer for me but it was good that I tried and I will use PartSelect again (hopefully not soon, though).

I am writing this post to hopefully save someone else the frustration and confusion I experienced when I ordered a replacement ignition module for an Amana gas cooktop AKGD3060WW. Over time, three of the four burner would not light. I ordered a replacement spark module from PartSelect and to my surprise it arrived the next day.

The installation instructions were very confusing. I read the instructions posted by prior customers about this part and none of them helped or seemed to apply to the same cooktop. With the use of the exploded view on PartSelect website I was able to figure out where the module was located.

I turned off the gas and unplugged the unit.

I had to go under the cabinet and securely prop up the cooktop cavity box from below as I had to take off the whole cover, which was actually holding, or mounting, the unit to the counter top.

I removed the cooking units then, the control knobs and the glass control plate, and the vent filter and vent cover. After removing about 20 screws from the main frame/cover I located the spark module at the rear of the unit, sandwiched between two pieces of sheet metal and obstructed by numerous wires. I recorded the wire connections then unplugged the module. It was difficult to remove module due to the numerous unrelated wires that were routed through that area.

I connected the wires to the new module (NOTE: The replacement module has no terminal identification.), plugged the cooktop into the power and tested it and noted that all four burners now received a strong spark.

The original unit is smaller than the replacement unit and the supplied bracket does not fit this cooktop. I had to force the module into position. I removed the two small tabs and applied double sided tape applied to the bottom then secured it against the original mounting bracket. I then adjusted the wires back into the recess with the module and reassembled the cooktop.

The cooktop now lights all four burners instantly, for the first time in several years.

Using a meter, we determined each of the four igniters had continuity from end to end and also had continuity from the end of each igniter back to the spark module. At that point we decided the module was probably bad and, after reviewing some similar-sounding problems on this website, I ordered the module. Installation was simple and solved the problem. All four burners now ignite as they should. One caution - the installation instructions that came with the new module did not describe anything like my stove.