AGDS901E Amana Range - Instructions

Repair was fast and easy 2 screws out 2 screws in. The best thing was I ordered the part Tues. morning and received it on Weds. To extra shipping charge!!! They were just that fast. Awesome Company!! Thanks!!

TURN OFF BREAKER PROVIDING POWER TO OVEN

First I tested the oven thermostat after removing the two screws attaching it to the back of the oven and pulling the thermostat out far enough to unplug it. I tested the thermostat using a multi tester set for testing OHMS. The test meter read 1080 ohms indicating that the thermostat was OK. I reinstalled the thermostat after plugging the wires back in and carefully feeding them back into the rear of the oven then replacing the two screws previously removed.

I then removed four screws holding the oven in place (Located inside on both sides of the oven - easier to remove oven door first) I slid the oven out being careful not to damage the pigtail providing power to the oven. I had studied the schematic and found a fan control located on the right top of the oven under an access cover. Remove the screws holding this cover in place (about 10 or 12 screws)slide cover off and this exposes the fan control. It has one red and one blue wire attached to it. This fan control should not have continuity when at room temp. I checked continuity with the multi tester and the fan control was on at room temperature. This fan control should not have continuity unless the temperature is around 200 deg f. I replaced the fan control by removing two screws holding it in place and unplugging the two wires connected to it. (BE SURE POWER IS TURNED OFF!!!) Reconnect the two wires to the new fan control and reattach the two screws holding it in place. Replace the access cover, slide oven back into cabinet and reattach using the four screws. Replace oven door and re-energize power to the oven. It takes a few minutes for the oven to get hot enough to turn on the cooling fan. (The cooling fan IS NOT the same fan that you can see when the oven door is open-that is the convection fan the cooling fan is visible through the top vents over the oven door)

Slide stove out unplug remove cover on back bottom left 3 screws remove wires from old module and plug into new module could not remove old module I glued new to old replaced cover pluged back in slide stove back in and the burners lit

Took off oven door, took out racks and bottom plate, removed burner assembly disconnected wires, removed old ignitor put new one in holder, connected wires, put burner assembly back, checked if it worked and replaced racks ect..No tools needed.

I researched the needed part (igniter)and purchased it on line. It arrived promoptly. I called a repair person who arrived and installed the new part. All is well.

Removed old igniter held by one bolt & nut, diconected two leads to igniter. Gas mainifold remained in place during repair. Replaced with new igniter, using old mounting bracket and wire ties. Total repair time 30min, oven repair service wanted to charge $80 just for diagnosis. Total cost of repair doing it myself was $50.

unscrewed the bracket holding the igniter in place then we pulled the drawer on the bottom out and disconnected the Igniter - then we took the unit out of the bracket replaced it and then put the bracket back into place screwed it in and reconnected the igniter and now it burns hotter then it has since we moved into the house two years ago.
I was worried that it would be a hard long job but was pleasantly surprised when it only took a few minutes.

First I turned off the gas supply to the oven and disconnected it. I then pull the oven out away from the wall. I then unplugged the power cord. I removed the oven door by lifting it off of it spring hinges. I then removed a lower plate that covers the burner element by pressing in a manner that it popped off. I then located the ignitor and removed 3 screws. All were easily removed. Carefully, I pulled the igniter out and removed the wires from the wires that supplied the current to the ignitor. Installation followed by working the steps above in reverse order.

Al lI had to do remove the oh swith & attach th e new on & push in place
It took about 5 min. to turn off the electric & to turn it back on.
Glen V

r & r hinge. very poor pivot pin which leads to frequent replacement of hinge assembly, cheaply made, weak spot is hinge pin pivot rivet.

Replace the old with the new part.In five minutes it was like new.

I took oven door apart and replaced old gasket with new one.

Easy fix, push in the new set button, slight twist and "done". The part fit perfectly and was an exact duplicate of the other set buttons.

First, my wife and I pulled out the oven from wall to disconnect electric plug and, also with a wrench; I shut off the gas connection on the wall. I then removed front door of the oven by pulling up on door to have easy access to lower part of oven, and then removed pan to get to Igniter. Removed the three screws on cage that supported the Igniter and, I also had to remove several screws to the manifold and bottom pan that supports the manifold so that I could disconnect Igniter. I then was able to pull out old Igniter and, reconnect the new one. After that, I reinstalled everything in reverse. Before pushing oven back into wall; we made sure the new igniter worked. It worked just great. My wife and I were so happy and proud that we done it our self, and not have to call someone to do it for us. It took me and, my wife about an hour and a half to complete the job. I believe the reason it took us as long as it did was because we really didn't know what to expect. Now that we know; I am sure that we could do it again in 30 to 45 minutes. Dave & Marsha; 8/23/2013

Roommate did the repair..so I don't know. I did the research online, the igniter solved the problem. Saved us buying a new oven!