AFI2539ERB00 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

The end cap is a very easy job to remove. Removed the three screws that hold the end cap in place using a 1/4 drive socket. Removed sliding rail which is affix to end cap to be reused with new end cap. Installed new end cap with the three screws and your done very easy. What made the job possible was the ability to identify the part from the PartsSelect.com web site which has excellent parts identification catalog.

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.

Lifted out the glass shelf and then removed two screws to get the right side end cap off. This side has a mechanical slide to adjust the amount of cold air into the Deli area.

You will need to carefully remove the plastic slide linkage from it's guides so that you can turn it sideways and it will then come off the end cap.

If it wasn't for that minor slowdown it would be a five minute job.

Thanks to this web site for QUICKLY getting me the part and providing info on how to do the job.

Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.

The parts arrived VERY quickly.Replacement was extremely easy even though the right side end cap has the temperature adjustment it only took 15-20 minutes.

Replaced with new gasket

well, first, after calming down i removed the glass from my sink (this took a half hour). then i went to the computer and looked for jenn-air parts. the part-select site came up. the site was very easy to use and although i usually leave things like this for my husband to do i decided to order the part myself, which i did.
the trick was finding something on hand to cover the tops of the crispers which were both full of vegetables. i innovated and used a shallow broiler pan and its lid which covered 90% of both the crispers. the part came in five days unwrapping the part was easy, cleaned it with windex (no sink soaking this time) and inserted it on top of crispers............totally easy!!!!!

Snapped new cover on.

Removed drawers and glass top and support bars Two screws on slid bar two screws on end cap, Make sure you take time to remove air control it has two pivot points with small taps.
Then just replace parts as you had taken off very easy.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

lift glass, slide new rail in replace glass. 2 min repair.

Removed the crisper drawers (pull out, then up & out), remove the glass shelf above the "pantry", remove the pantry door (easy because hinge stud was broken), then remove the pantry drawer. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove the broken LH End Cap...it pulls up and out. With the phillips screwdriver, remove/replace the steel rail for the drawer action to the new part. Replace in reverse order (after your neat freak SO cleans everything!).

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

It was just a simple swap out with the new bins.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.