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AFD2535DEW7 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Center Crisper rail was broken and the drawers were not closing all the way
8 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edward from Lowell, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just pulled out theold and squeezed in the new. I forced it and it went in.
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2nd time the frame and rail has broken
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jerry from GREAT FALLS, MT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the old frame and removed the metal rod from the front of the old and slide it in to the new frame.
Then I took a piece from the old frame, measured the distance to the center of the two shelf brackets mounted inside in the rear of the refrigerator. Then I drilled two holes in the salvaged piece and mounted the piece as a s ... Read more upport under the new frame using #8 sheet metal stews. This will prevent future breaks.
Then I took a piece from the old frame, measured the distance to the center of the two shelf brackets mounted inside in the rear of the refrigerator. Then I drilled two holes in the salvaged piece and mounted the piece as a s ... Read more upport under the new frame using #8 sheet metal stews. This will prevent future breaks.
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leaking water onto floor
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from ALTO, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice
... Read more
maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.
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Glides easy to install, about 15 minutes
9 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary Sue from Tinley Park, IL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
you need to take the deli drawer out, make sure your flat head screw driver is large enough for the head of the screw as screwing into the plastic is a bit difficult. Other than that there are 2 screws and its pretty easy.
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broken light switch in the freezer
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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kathleen from GREEN VALLEY, AZ
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.
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Refrigerator would cool for a very short period of time. Then the compressor would shutdown via internal thermal overload or high head pressure. This was caused by the lack of airflow across the condenser coils and compressor.
10 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from RICHTON, MS
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed
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a piece broke off that caused a shelf lid to not open and close correctly.
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Denise from Sammamish, WA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
It was a very simple operation and was done in no time.
Doing it myself saved me at least $100.00 or more.
I was very happy and satisfied with the part and how doing it myself saved me a lot of time and money.
Doing it myself saved me at least $100.00 or more.
I was very happy and satisfied with the part and how doing it myself saved me a lot of time and money.
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Broken tab that holds the pantry door on
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Craig from Pueblo, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I broke the left side end cap the holds the pantry door on.
I search the internet for the part and happened to run across part select. I order the part and received the part with in 3 business days. It took less than 30 minutes to replace the end cap.
The great reviews help me with my choice to order the part from part sel ... Read more ect. I will order parts from them again.
Thanks for helping me fix my fridge.
I search the internet for the part and happened to run across part select. I order the part and received the part with in 3 business days. It took less than 30 minutes to replace the end cap.
The great reviews help me with my choice to order the part from part sel ... Read more ect. I will order parts from them again.
Thanks for helping me fix my fridge.
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There was ice building up in the freezer.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from OWINGS MILLS, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I searched the internet for the correct part and reviewed the instructions on the internet. Upon ordering the correct part I was provided a link to a video that walked me through step by step. The very first thing I did was unplug the refrigerator.I then located the control board located in the housing in the ceiling of the refrigerator.
... Read more
Using a screwdriver I was able to carefully separate the housing from the refrigerator ceiling . Unplugged the housing and then had to separate the plastic housing to locate the control board. Ran into a little difficulty at first separating the plastic tabs but with a screwdriver carefully pried the tabs. Once completely open is where the control board was. More plastic tabs holding the control board in place. Carefully separated the board from the tabs. The were two plugs that needed to be separated from the board. Used a screwdriver to get the plugs separated.The new board you had to bend carefully at a joint so the board became two pieces. Snapped the boards in place. Plugged the board in two spots. Put the housing together and put the housing in place in the refrigerator. Plugged the refrigerator in. All lights came on and then had to program the board. The instructions were spit on. The code is located inside the fridge were the model tag is. Programmed correctly. Word of advice read the directions a few times you can't go wrong. So far it's day 7 after I installed the board and no ice building up. According to the internet the control board controls the defrost function on my model. Very happy. I'm still watching the freezer but I'm pretty sure I fixed my matter. Thanks for sending the right part and the video. Repair went well. Just take your time and go easy because everything involved is plastic. I didn't want to break any tabs I had to deal with.
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Both refrigerator door gaskets were brittle & breaking
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Nancy from ELM CITY, NC
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
I ordered a right & left gasket but when they arrived there was no indication of which was the right or left one...so I just had to guess...I easily lifted the old gasket away from the door & removed. Then starting at the top began inserting the portion that goes into the groove with the help of the table knife, continuing down both sides
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..then sat on a stool to push the bottom section into place...Had to go back over several areas to reseat but finally closed the door to hopefully set the gasket..Drank some hot tea, then removed the left gasket & began the process all over...The extra flaps ended up on the left side of the door so I may have to remove this side and reposition...I'll check it in a few..then will blow all with a warm setting of the low dryer to continue helping the molding process..
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ice maker dripped water into ice bin, freeezing into large block of ice,
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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charles from PHOENIX, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert th
... Read more
ermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,
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Refrigerator Repair - How to Replace the Pantry End Cap
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Morten from SAN JOSE, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Broken bottom drawer lid mount
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3-year-old refrigerator wouldn't cool, digital temp. control stopped working
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rebecca from SAINT JOHN, IN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem o
... Read more
ccurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.
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Black flecks in ice
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anthony from Billings, MT
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the c ... Read more onnector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the c ... Read more onnector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
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Defrost cycle not kicking in. Refrigerator not cooling. Freezer working.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from DUVALL, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I replaced the control board first. The freezer back panel frosted up and the refrigerator warmed up again. Then I force (short option vs long) defrosted the refrigerator. However, a few days later the defrost issue came back again. Force defrost no longer worked, though likely due to a severe ice build up behind the freezer panel. I orde
... Read more
red the wire harness. I took off the freezer door (loosen four screws only), removed the tray rails, ice maker, thermostat housing and vent mounted on the freezer panel. The rails and the vent are a bit tricky to remove since no directions exist. I then removed the fan above the coils and then removed the wire harness. Installing the new harness is easy except that I had to modify one of the ground connections for it to mount properly. I tested the unit for 72 hours. The defrost cycle eventually kicked in (dripping onto a pan and sizzling sound). I then reinstalled all parts. No frost build up. Good to go!
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