AER4311AAW Amana Range - Instructions

removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

I looked at the other repair stories on this site & realized it should be simple to do. I first switched off the power at the circuit breaker (range has its own switch). Then used a philips head screw driver to remove the 2 screws that hold the element in place at the back of the oven. Gently pulled the element out. Was able to disconnect the wire on the right side. But the other one would not budge. Thought I would have to get a repair guy out after all. Decided to try again again next day. Put on a pair of leather gloves to get a better grip on the wire (thought pliers might bend the connectors). Was able to wiggle it back & forth & it came loose. Then it was easy to hook up the new one, gently pushing the element connectors into the oven wires & put it back into the oven & replaced the 2 screws holding the element in place. Switched the circuit breaker back on. Turned on the oven and it works like new and no repair person visit!! Thanks for the info at this site.

(1) Disassembled range element cartridge unit by removing six machine screws on sides
(2) Removed old element receptacle assembly (note screww attaching the clip to ring was corroded and had to be drilled out and replaced - screw not included), retaining existing element (determined it was good)
(3) Fited up new element receptacle assembly and determined how far the new wires would go, cut the old wires at appropriate point (allowing for wire splice).
(4) Attached new element receptacle assembly using a machine screw I found in my collection
(5) Routed new wires though retaining clips, and spliced into old wires near the cartridge plug (note: be sure to use high temp splice nuts - not supplied in kit)
(6) Installed old element into new receptacle and tested by measuring resistance - element resistance should be about 12 ohms, with all connections to ground reading infinity)
(7) Reassembled cartrige assembly using six machine screws previously removed (note, make sure the part align properly - top inside the bottom)
(8) Put the assembly back on range - worked great!

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

Real easy to do. I just unscrewed from back pulled out until wire can out of back then seperated from wire. Took out element put new one in. Real easy didn't even need my husband

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

FIgured it was either a bad heating element or a realy expensive repair so I purchased a replacement element to rule out the simple and inexpensive possibility. Pulled oven out from wall and disconnected power supply. Removed retaining bracket from top of oven, two screws that held in heating element, disconnected from fittings, replaced with new element, and reattached screws and retaining bracket. Plugged in power supply, tested lower oven (it worked just fine) pushed oven back against the wall. Threw away the old element and packaging. Job done.

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

I learned that I could clean the window in the oven door. In taking it apart I saw that the gasket had fallen into the oven door. I found the part online, it arrived in three days. I removed the metal part of the door, removed what was left of the old gasket and put in the new one. Put the metal part of the door back on, and it was as good as new.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

very very easy. but keep in mind that step one, killing the power at the power box. I jumped that one to a near disastours outcome, thankully all turned out well byt there was a hell of bang and VERY bright flash. Still was worth "doing it yourself" just keep in mine the cut power side...Safety first!!!

I raised the stove top to verify with a volt meter that electricity was truely going to the elements and which ones were receiving current. I removed the back panels to gain access to the controls and wiring. After checking the circuitry with the volt meter I determined that one of the thermostatic controls was defective. I ordered a new control and 8" burner (which showed signs of deterioration) from PartSelect and received them the next afternoon. It took less than an hour to reassemble.

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.