AE9433 Dryer - Instructions

Removed lower front panel.

Removed door assembly* making note of the wire positions on the door switch
* When removing the door assembly DO NOT LET IT DROP DOWN! Doing so will destroy the door switch. Swing the door assembly upward from the bottom toward you as high as it will go then pull it free.

Removed the drum and belt assembly.

Removed the idler pulley and idler pully spring.

Vacuumed up the interior dryer floor and blew out the motor w/ comp air. Also cleaned the ribbed motor pulley with a nylon brush and brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.

Removed the drum tires and cleaned their shafts and internal bearing sleeves with brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.

Reinstalled the drum tires after lubricating their shafts with a very light coat of general purpose grease.

Replaced the idler pulley and idler pulley spring after cleaning and lubing shaft and pulley bearing as done on the drum tires.

Reinstalled the drum with the new belt (ribbed side down) roughly in place.

Reinstalled the front door assembly after reconnecting it's wiring making sure to insert it's top locking tabs with the bottom of the door held up high then swung down into place

Tensioned the belt by positioning the flat side of the belt that comes down the right side of the drum over the idler pulley flat side down and then the ribbed side of the belt over the motor shaft. You will have to move the idler pulley arm to apply full tension against the spring in order to have the slack to get it around the motor shaft.

Reinstalled the lower front panel.

Checked dryer operation OK.

This repair was rated a bit difficult because I didn't know the trick for removing/installing the door assembly and destroyed the switch. Furthermore, putting the belt back on is a somewhat difficult challenge because you have to do it mostly by feel

Removed lower panel, door assembly, belt and drum.
Removed blower wheel cover.
Used dremmel tool to cut plastic from metal that attaches the blower to the motor shaft.
Used adjustable wrench to keep motor shaft from turning.
Used vise grip to clamp on metal and turned to loosen blower wheel.
Attached new blower and re-assembled.

. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.

Well tried to find this simple part around Columbus and even maytag website no luck.Parts select had it to go and arrived earlier than expected.Fixed it less than 5 minutes works great.taken longer to put the light bulb back in,Really like the accuracy and quick response from parts select.If I had called a service tech probably would have cost $50.00 or more for a part that cost a little over $3.00 and saved this site in case I need to order other parts.Thank you

Removed the front panel of the dryer and drum to replace the rollers. You will need a snap ring pliers to remove the locking snap ring holding the rollers, replaced rollers, installed new drum belt and replaced the front dyer panel.
Tested the dryer no more noise.

Thanks

My 11 year old daughter broke the door clasp to the dryer by repeatedly slamming it trying to get it to close. I told her to go down stairs write down the make model and serial number and come back up and find a place to buy it online. I left with instructions not to use the computer for anything else until the part was found. Less then 15 minutes later I came back because I heard giggling. She was chatting but had found an exploded view of the door and the part. She was very pleased with herself! We bought it and it arrived a few days later. I saw the empty box. She had opened it and taken it down and installed it herself. A good lesson, for her and me

removed a couple of screws and replaced the new fuse . the dryer is heating up ok now.

p.s thank you for the quick deliever on the part, . as i was only with out the dryer for two days

Thanks
JoAnn

clothes drier didn't work, tore the drier apart, found problem went looking for the part locally, didn't find it, got mad, went on line, found Parts Select, ordered part, part under $20.00 delivered, part delivered, put everything back together , can dry clothes again, didn't have to find $350.00 to go buy a new drier. Merry Christmas!

The first time, I inserted the belt the wrong way. The drum turns a little bit then stops. The manufacturer does not give any instructions or drawings on their website on that particular model, only drawing of parts.I called the technical support department and they told me to call different telephone numbers in my area and repair technicians. Still no schematic and instructions.
The solution: I took the broken belt, put around the drum, measured it, the remaining slack, did some trial and error around the motor axle and the pulley.
Placed a 2 X 4 piece of wood to hold the tension of the pulley. With the belt around the drum, carefully inserted the drum downward. placed the belt starting from the left side of the drum to the bottom of the motor axle, around it then to the bottom of the tension pulley, then towards the right side of the drum.
Lift the drum to its proper position, horizontal. Remove the piece of wood. Turn the drum manually so it moves freely. check the belt moving around the axle and the pulley. Install back the panels and screws tightened. Test and observe a few drying runs.

Removed 2 screws on the bottom of front panel of dryer & pulled it off. Next I got down & looked to the back & bottom inside of the dryer. I spyed the heating element,I pulled off the two wires from the thermostats[ orange & black. I removed two screws from the heating element plate & dropped it down & removed it from the dryer. Reverse procedure to reinstall. Will see if we can get another 10 years service out of it.

I ordered the part. ( I should have ordered just in case it happens again.) When it got here it took less than a minute to snap it in.

remove the housing under the dryer door. take out the lint trap. I took the whole bottom off the dryer to easily get to the tensioner pully. I then loosened the tub and slid off the old belt and replaced it.

The old door catch broke and fell into the unit. Ordered the new part which arrived fast and snapped it into place. Perfect fit and the door now closes/latches correctly - like new again. Would recommend your web site to all do-it-yourselfers. Loved browsing your site, especially seeing all of the schematics and parts list for my unit.

This would be an easy job, if I were to do it again.

I needed to download a manual only to get ACCESS to the machine. Removing the outside lag bolts did NOT provide access.

They had hidden clips that were ENTIRELY invisible from the outside. I believe this was done deliberately, to prevent those who don't know the specifics about this machine from gaining access.

It's an easy job, once you know the idiosyncracies of the construction of the machine. It's a major pain in the ass if you don't, even if you are used to replacing belts in other dryers.

Having done it once, the next time I could do it in under 20% of the time it took me the first time.

To start the repair, I removed the two front panels. Disconnecting the wiring to door and light. Next removing dryer drum and drive belt[ allows access to belt tensioner] replace tensioner roller, then reassemble. Dryer works fine