ADW662EAB-PADW662EAB0 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.

I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.

Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.

First I turned off the circuit breaker to dishwasher. Then removed the lower spinner and related parts. The water in the bottom needs to be sucked out with a shop vac next, because when the pump screws are removed any remaining water will drain underneath onto the floor. Remove the wash pump and drain rotor.
Remove the front bottom plate to access underneath, unplug the electric motor and thermister. Unscrew both hoses,drain and upper wash arm. Move the locking ring to release the the entire assembly up into the dishwasher.
The kit I bought had most of all the washer parts included, so on reassembly I used the new ones. The rest when back together in reverse order after a good cleaning. Since the thing was apart anyway why not clean up all the filters on reassembly. The kit also came with complete instructions.

Was extremely easy to remove that existing rackings(upper and lower), install the new racks and snap in the new spray tower. It now looks like we have a new dishwasher. We are hoping that it will last another 10+ years.
We will recommend your site to friends.

I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.

Replacing my dishwasher racks was very easy. I followed the guidance on the PartsSelect.com website for replacing the upper rack. Replacing the lower rack was only challenging when I couldn't figure out how to remove the water sprayer from the old rack and place it in the new rack. A quick search on Google.com and I learned to turn the sprayer counter-clockwise to remove it and then clockwise to put it in the new rack. Worked like a charm! I would recommend PartsSelect.com to anyone. Easy to use, parts came quickly, and I appreciated the guidance from others.

turn off breaker
turn off water supply line
note wire color locations on notepad
disconnect 2 spade lugs (pliers)
disconnect inlet line (adj. wrench)
disconnect outlet line (pliers on hose clamp)
remove old valve assembly (4 screws w/nutdriver)
remove ground jumper from old valve
remove inlet pipe ell from old unit (vise & pliers)
clean open end of pipe ell (file)
apply teflon dope tape to pipe threads
install pipe ell on new valve
reorient solenoid 90degrees cw to match Maytag installation
reinstall ground jumper
install new valve assembly in dishwasher
reconnect hose and hose clamp
reconnect inlet line
reconnect spade lugs
turn on supply line, check for leaks
turn on breaker
start washer at appropriate cycle to test water flow
done!

I took off the front bottom panel for an easy access. The valve is located on the left. Shut off water to the dishwasher. Remove the bracket that holds the valve. Remove hoses and 2 wires on the valve switch. Install new valve by revesing the steps above.

Piece of cake. I panicked for a minute before I realized that there was a threaded brass 90 in the inlet valve. It looked like it was the wrong part for a minute. Once I got the 90 reinstalled in the new valve, I had it back together in 10 minutes. It seems to be working better.

First, I searched the repair help on this site to see what others did to repair their diswashers, and it looked easy, so I just followed the same instructions. First, I used a hex star key wrench to remove the screws that hold in the interior door cover. I disconnected the leads to the defective wax motor, reconnected the leads to the new motor and screwed the door back together. It took 15-20 minutes and was a piece of cake! My first appliance repair, and as a single woman and first-time homeowner, I was really impressed with this site! It gave me confidence to tackle more home repairs instead of calling for service and getting raked over the coals.

First unplug the unit. Open door. Take a special tool to remove all the screws (star shaped) around the edge of the door, and remove plastic panel where motor for detergent cup sits. Remove wires (two) from the motor. Remove wax motor by unsnapping motor from its cradle--comes out by moving the fingers holding it in. Push new motor into position, being sure the round pin sticking out at the end (on the left side) so that it sits in the groove made for it. Replace panel and screws, plug power cable back into its box. Close detergent cup door, turm on dishwasher, run through cycle, open door and check to see if detergent door opened up. If it did, then fill with dishes and wash.

I pulled out the old rack, removed the spraying apparatus, attached it to the new rack and slid it into place.

1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model)
2) Tipped it onto its back
3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver)
4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers)
5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring.
6) Removed broken link
7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door.
8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers.
9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.

First, I removed the screws that hold the interior part of the door in place. Next, I removed the two screws that covers the interior parts of the latch release in place. Then, I removed the broken latch, put in the new one and attached the spring. I put the pieces back in place, and the two screws back in. Finally, I screwed the door panel back together.

I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

I simply connected the two hoses to the valve plugged in the two wires and it was working!