ADE9005AGW Admiral Dryer - Instructions
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Drum not turning
First of all I think this was an assembly issue, cause it was a bit noisy since we bought it, but I dismissed it as a break in noise & it would go away over time, but of course it just got worst ontil it failed....
Anyway 1st thing I did was, stick a standard screwdriver between the top & front, to pop the top off, then used a socket wrench set to remove the 2 screws for the front panel assembly, ( **taking note were what color wire connectors went were 3 for switch "y,g,b" & 2 for light "yb & g"), then used socket wrench set to remove 4 screws for the front bulkhead, ( upon removal I now understood what the noise was all about, the lip of the drum was rubbing against the bulkhead & both cylinder glide brackets, wearing the drum lip & cylinder glide brackets, down to shards of metal, rasor sharp, Both brackets were wore in half & bulkhead damaged ), then I removed the shards from the drum & used the hamer to dull & round a smaller drum lip, then I removed lint trap holder from bulkhead, ( since I had it apart I took it outside & cleaned it with my power jet hose attachment ), then I removed missalined & Damaged cylinder seal, srcapped bulkhead clean with standard screwdriver, applide goop glue to bulkhead & new cylinder seal, then applide new seal & let dry overnite, in the mean time I removed both damaged (the other half), cylinder glide brackets, used the old gliders & pads, ( they were not damaged, " LIKE NEW"???), attached them to the new bracket, then attached the 2 cylinder bracket assemblies to the bulkhead, then I used metal tape (several layers on both sides of bulkhead) to fix the damage caused by the old missalined seal & drum lip.... Then I re-assmembled lint trap holder to bulkhead, & re-assembled bulkhead to dryer, then attached the front, ( see above**), then popped the top into place... Now we have a GOOD QUIET dryer
Anyway 1st thing I did was, stick a standard screwdriver between the top & front, to pop the top off, then used a socket wrench set to remove the 2 screws for the front panel assembly, ( **taking note were what color wire connectors went were 3 for switch "y,g,b" & 2 for light "yb & g"), then used socket wrench set to remove 4 screws for the front bulkhead, ( upon removal I now understood what the noise was all about, the lip of the drum was rubbing against the bulkhead & both cylinder glide brackets, wearing the drum lip & cylinder glide brackets, down to shards of metal, rasor sharp, Both brackets were wore in half & bulkhead damaged ), then I removed the shards from the drum & used the hamer to dull & round a smaller drum lip, then I removed lint trap holder from bulkhead, ( since I had it apart I took it outside & cleaned it with my power jet hose attachment ), then I removed missalined & Damaged cylinder seal, srcapped bulkhead clean with standard screwdriver, applide goop glue to bulkhead & new cylinder seal, then applide new seal & let dry overnite, in the mean time I removed both damaged (the other half), cylinder glide brackets, used the old gliders & pads, ( they were not damaged, " LIKE NEW"???), attached them to the new bracket, then attached the 2 cylinder bracket assemblies to the bulkhead, then I used metal tape (several layers on both sides of bulkhead) to fix the damage caused by the old missalined seal & drum lip.... Then I re-assmembled lint trap holder to bulkhead, & re-assembled bulkhead to dryer, then attached the front, ( see above**), then popped the top into place... Now we have a GOOD QUIET dryer
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Dean from Minneapolis, MN
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Belt on drum was sqeuling on start up
Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill
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William from Mendota, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer tumbler was rubbing on metal
As it turned out, the felt was only part of the problem. The guide bracket had been cut thru by the drum. This all started when a golf tee got stuck in the drum area. It took very little time to destroy the guide bracket. Dryer was built by Whirlpool. Parts are built to the bare minimum. These appliances are designed to break in a couple of years. There is no doubt about it. I installed the new guide brkt, glued the new felt on and put it all back together. The job is pretty straight forward but you need to be mechanically inclined.
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Stuart from Port Charlotte, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer was making an awful noise.
I first removed the front panel and door on the dryer using a 5/16th nut driver. I needed to disconnect the light and switch to remove the door. I raised the top lid of the dryer to expose the drum. I rmover the fan schroud and lint filter by removing 4 5/16 screws with the nut driver. I disconnected the belt from the idle tension pully and removed the drum. The drum support rollers were visible on the back frame of the dryer. I removed the bad roller using snap ring pliers. After cleaning the roller support shaft and lubricating the shaft with grease I replaced the drum support roller and secured it with the snap ring. I also replaced the dryer belt although it was still workiing. I reasembled the dryer after giving the inside a cleaning with the shop vac. The hardest part was getting the belt secured with the tension idle pulley. When assemblying the fan schroud make sure it is snug against the fan so it doesn't leak. Replace the top and front door and cover connecting the switch and light. If you get the switch wires correct the dryer will run with the door shut otherwise reverse the wires.
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Wilford from Long Grove, IA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer sounds super loud
Went to YouTube and put in good.. did not fix the problem with the dryer but it has a new belt on it now!
Parts Used:
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Denise from VANCOUVER, WA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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trouble with lining the drum on the rollers after belt installation
disassembled the entire dryer drum and front bulkhead plate. Installed belt and replaced drum on rollers and positioned idler pulley .Video was very helpful in positioning drum and belt onto idler pulley. More trouble with the existing dryer vent replacement after repairs were complete
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Raymond from OCEANSIDE, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Delaminated blower fan
I followed the online video on PartSelect website. No other instruction necessary.
Parts Used:
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Geoffrey from GREAT FALLS, VA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
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I changed multiple parts on my dryer.
I totally disassembled the Dryer, and replaced the Guide Rollers, Blower Wheel, Idler Pulley Shaft, Idler Pulley, and Belt.
Parts Used:
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Edward A. from PHILADELPHIA, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Front Drum Seal became detatched.I Recommend replacing both seals.
Step by step, I removed the bottom front panel with a putty knife to compress the spring clamps, removed the inner lint trap, disconnected the door switch and springs and blower connection under the drum, removed the lint trap/ blower housing, remove nuts at bottom sides of door panel, lift top front of dryer (putty knife, spring clamps) to remove nuts at the top then removed the door panel. I then released the belt from the (spring) pulley and pulled the drum out. Pay attention to how the seals were put on! I removed the old seals and cleaned off the old adhesive with acetone and a steel scrubby( wear gloves when using acetone and when applying new adhesive, and work in a ventilated area!) Follow instructions for applying the adhesive for the seals. Put back together in reverse order. Repair successful!
Parts Used:
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jeanne from NEWBERRY, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Drum did not turn on heavy loads, only light loads.
I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.
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William from MELBOURNE, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Our Maytag dryer wouldn't spin under a load of wet clothes.
After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.
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Daryl from WESTBOROUGH, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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The dryer was making a screeching noise due to a faulty Idler Lever and the dryer was not drying the clothes in sufficient time due to a bad belt.
Watched the videos first. Unplugged the dryer plug. lifted the top of the dryer and braced it. removed the front cover and bulkhead and disconnected the wires. Removed the drum and belt. removed the 2 screws to the motor plate to replace the idler pulley. installed the belt around the drum and inserted the drum. routed the belt around the idler pulley and checked for alignment and twists. reinstalled the bulkhead and the front cover. plugged the dryer cord back in and listened to a quiet dryer. The dryer also dried the clothes in one setting. Yahoo and saved a bunch of money fixing it myself. I recommend to anyone to watch the videos on site to diagnose dryer noises. You'll be amazed and save money doing it yourself.
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Rene from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
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had a annoying screeching noise when drying clothes
basically i took the whole front of dryer off and removed drum from there i could reach the rear rollers and changed them all is quiet now i also cleaned lint from blower motor and lint housing now it sounds like more air is moving and i beleive it dries clothes faster --runs and sounds brand new again!!
Thank's Partsselect
G.Booker
Thank's Partsselect
G.Booker
Parts Used:
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Gary from Ellettsville, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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loud squeak/grinding noise
Used a dolly to move the drier out in the garage to give myself some room to work...remove the bottom panel--2 screws at the bottom...remove the door--2 screws at the bottom of the door, disconnect the 2 switch wires and then it slips out of the top....remove 2 screws from the top and swing the top all the way back out of the way---it'll just hang there.....remove the front drum support--4 screws.....slide the drum forward while working the drive belt off of the drum.....you can now see the 2 drum support wheels.....at that time I got my shop vac and got all the lint and crud outa there......remove the snap ring on each wheel, slide off the washer and wheel, pay attention--the wheel has a front and back.....reinstall the new wheel with washer and snap ring (i put a small dab of grease on the wheel support)....I also put a dab of grease on the belt tensioner wheel support--same little snap ring retainer.....reinstall the drum by sliding it in slowly as you work the belt back into place....install the front drum support--roll the drum by hand to make sure your belt is on properly.... resecure the top, then the door, and finally the bottom....when facing the drier my left wheel was in way worse condition----this is obviously because it is located right in front of the heating element....thanx and good luck....
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Troy from Huffman, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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The belt that turns the dryer broke
The front of the dryer needed to be taken off, the drum needed to be taken out and the belt installed on the wheel structure.
I was very pleased at how fast I received the part after ordering it! I will definitely use this site again when ordering replacement parts!
I was very pleased at how fast I received the part after ordering it! I will definitely use this site again when ordering replacement parts!
Parts Used:
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Pamela from Sanbornton, NH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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