ADE9005AGW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

First of all I think this was an assembly issue, cause it was a bit noisy since we bought it, but I dismissed it as a break in noise & it would go away over time, but of course it just got worst ontil it failed....
Anyway 1st thing I did was, stick a standard screwdriver between the top & front, to pop the top off, then used a socket wrench set to remove the 2 screws for the front panel assembly, ( **taking note were what color wire connectors went were 3 for switch "y,g,b" & 2 for light "yb & g"), then used socket wrench set to remove 4 screws for the front bulkhead, ( upon removal I now understood what the noise was all about, the lip of the drum was rubbing against the bulkhead & both cylinder glide brackets, wearing the drum lip & cylinder glide brackets, down to shards of metal, rasor sharp, Both brackets were wore in half & bulkhead damaged ), then I removed the shards from the drum & used the hamer to dull & round a smaller drum lip, then I removed lint trap holder from bulkhead, ( since I had it apart I took it outside & cleaned it with my power jet hose attachment ), then I removed missalined & Damaged cylinder seal, srcapped bulkhead clean with standard screwdriver, applide goop glue to bulkhead & new cylinder seal, then applide new seal & let dry overnite, in the mean time I removed both damaged (the other half), cylinder glide brackets, used the old gliders & pads, ( they were not damaged, " LIKE NEW"???), attached them to the new bracket, then attached the 2 cylinder bracket assemblies to the bulkhead, then I used metal tape (several layers on both sides of bulkhead) to fix the damage caused by the old missalined seal & drum lip.... Then I re-assmembled lint trap holder to bulkhead, & re-assembled bulkhead to dryer, then attached the front, ( see above**), then popped the top into place... Now we have a GOOD QUIET dryer

I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.

Went on line to this sites video's to diagnose the problem. Steve Ash is EXCELLENT. Put idler& roller replacement video's in my Favorite File! Ordered parts PS11741930&PS11741913 from this site on line. Good price, Fantastic 1 1/2 day delivery (Fed Ex ) Referred to great videos for installation. Hints: 1) Be sure to identify ALL wires 2) Be careful removing snap rings from rollers, I stretched mine and had to reform them.(new ones did not come with the rollers. 3) It would be a good time to replace the belt & drum pads when the drum is out.

There was initial rumbling and thumping then the drum failed to rotate under power. I could however rotate the drum by hand. This site suggested the rollers or belt as well as the idler assembly. I decided to renew all the wearable parts and ordered the belt, rollers, glides and idler assembly. It was in fact the idler. The idler wheel had disintegrated and collapsed in the center. It must have run (rumbling) until it finally seized and stopped. Replaced all the parts and the dryer is even better now than new. It was a good opportunity to vacuum out all the lint inside the cavity (that took most of the time and also found $0.36 in loose change). Also found it easier to remove the electrical connections with pliers rather than pull on the wires and risk detaching the wire from the clip.

After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.

I first removed the front panel and door on the dryer using a 5/16th nut driver. I needed to disconnect the light and switch to remove the door. I raised the top lid of the dryer to expose the drum. I rmover the fan schroud and lint filter by removing 4 5/16 screws with the nut driver. I disconnected the belt from the idle tension pully and removed the drum. The drum support rollers were visible on the back frame of the dryer. I removed the bad roller using snap ring pliers. After cleaning the roller support shaft and lubricating the shaft with grease I replaced the drum support roller and secured it with the snap ring. I also replaced the dryer belt although it was still workiing. I reasembled the dryer after giving the inside a cleaning with the shop vac. The hardest part was getting the belt secured with the tension idle pulley. When assemblying the fan schroud make sure it is snug against the fan so it doesn't leak. Replace the top and front door and cover connecting the switch and light. If you get the switch wires correct the dryer will run with the door shut otherwise reverse the wires.

As it turned out, the felt was only part of the problem. The guide bracket had been cut thru by the drum. This all started when a golf tee got stuck in the drum area. It took very little time to destroy the guide bracket. Dryer was built by Whirlpool. Parts are built to the bare minimum. These appliances are designed to break in a couple of years. There is no doubt about it. I installed the new guide brkt, glued the new felt on and put it all back together. The job is pretty straight forward but you need to be mechanically inclined.

basically i took the whole front of dryer off and removed drum from there i could reach the rear rollers and changed them all is quiet now i also cleaned lint from blower motor and lint housing now it sounds like more air is moving and i beleive it dries clothes faster --runs and sounds brand new again!!


Thank's Partsselect
G.Booker

I totally disassembled the Dryer, and replaced the Guide Rollers, Blower Wheel, Idler Pulley Shaft, Idler Pulley, and Belt.

Step by step, I removed the bottom front panel with a putty knife to compress the spring clamps, removed the inner lint trap, disconnected the door switch and springs and blower connection under the drum, removed the lint trap/ blower housing, remove nuts at bottom sides of door panel, lift top front of dryer (putty knife, spring clamps) to remove nuts at the top then removed the door panel. I then released the belt from the (spring) pulley and pulled the drum out. Pay attention to how the seals were put on! I removed the old seals and cleaned off the old adhesive with acetone and a steel scrubby( wear gloves when using acetone and when applying new adhesive, and work in a ventilated area!) Follow instructions for applying the adhesive for the seals. Put back together in reverse order. Repair successful!

Watched the videos first. Unplugged the dryer plug. lifted the top of the dryer and braced it. removed the front cover and bulkhead and disconnected the wires. Removed the drum and belt. removed the 2 screws to the motor plate to replace the idler pulley. installed the belt around the drum and inserted the drum. routed the belt around the idler pulley and checked for alignment and twists. reinstalled the bulkhead and the front cover. plugged the dryer cord back in and listened to a quiet dryer. The dryer also dried the clothes in one setting. Yahoo and saved a bunch of money fixing it myself. I recommend to anyone to watch the videos on site to diagnose dryer noises. You'll be amazed and save money doing it yourself.

We received the parts in two days. We installed the new lint duct assembly in about 30 minutes. We unplugged the dryer and lift ed the top of the dryer removed the front of dry we disconnected the wiring and then removed the damaged lint duct . Cleaned the lint off the dryer and replaced the new lint duct. screwed the front back on . Reconnected the wiring clips and put the top back on the dryer. The top of dryer had clips that slid the top back on. Plugged dryer in and it works great.

I followed the online video on PartSelect website. No other instruction necessary.

Replaced pulley, arm, glide pads and belt. Followed the video and it was a breeze. Dryer is back to "Like new". And much cleaner inside!

Went to YouTube and put in good.. did not fix the problem with the dryer but it has a new belt on it now!