ADB2200AWS Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

The original piece is 100% plastic (with metal shields only to prevent burning). The bushing of the arm was badly worn out in one side. The arm was no turning properly or at the end no turning at all. I decide to drill the new part in order to fit a brass bushing inside (1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, about 2" long). I expect it will last considerable longer. I would say this is a typical "defective by design" problem.

My married daughter actually did the repair. I removed the plastic assemblies that held the upper cage and upper spray assembly. She unscrewed the screws that held the filter/impeller assembly in place and replaced the old one with the new one. I finished the job by cleaning the interior of the washer and putting everything back together. The dishes are sparkling clean again!

I pulled the AC to the device, took the door apart , unscrewed the mounting to the door, unplugged the wires to it, plugged the wires on the new part, screwed it to the door, and finally put the door back together. Oh yeah, had to plug AC back in.

Orderd the part's from your web site (recived my order in a timley fasion thanks) the parts just sliped on and clipped' basket rolls great. Mike Schaffer

I removed screws in trim, kick panel and counter top. Turned off breaker at electric box, Dishwasher slid out easily. diconnected water line; so i could slide entire unit out of cabinet. Laid unit on side and cleaned up the water that leaked out.
Removed the pump with nutdriver, replaced pump and reconnected electric, drain hose and screws.
Replaced unit into cabinet, connected water and turned on electric. no leaks, ran machine in rinse cycle, at time for pump I could hear and feel it was running, but no water. Evidently my original problem was the "air gap" device. I repaced it $4 at Home Depot and it works like a champ.
In hind site, the air gap probably ruined the old pump, so you might want to consider changing it out whenever you change the pump.

Snapped the old part out and snapped the new part in.
It was a piece of cake.

First, I removed the screw, then I took off the old wash arm, then I replaced the wash arm, and replaced the screw. Nothing could be easier!

Impeller bolts to plastic chopper mount which is screwed to the top of the motor. Threads on chopper mount were stripped causing impeller to not spin fast enough (replacement mount, which is part of the chopper kit, is metal). Installtion was not difficult.
You have to reach underneath the washer and wedge a screwdriver on top of the motor to hold the shaft from moving.

with dishwasher running I would open the door and notice the lower spray arm was not turning. I removed all parts in the tub and clean off all the accumulated gunk (likely combination of food and soap scum - like a white paste) . The accumulator screens where more than 50% clogged with no way to clean the inside. I replaced the accumulator part and the lower spray arm because 2 holes had gunk in them that would not come out. dishes are now getting clean and I am switching to liquid - no more powder as I suspect it caused the build up over time.

I followed the you tube video exactly. Very easy to do. I did not tighten the screws sequentially as shown in the video, rather I did the opposite ones to make sure nothing was skewed. Very easy, about 20 minutes.

I pulled the machine from under the counter top and the striker is right in front just under the insulation. I pullled the insulation back just a little and screwed down the new striker plate. That's all. I moved the machine back uinder the counter and secured it. Done!

I thought the door springs were broken so I ordered both springs and cables. After the parts arrived I removed the six screws that hold the dishwasher in place and slid the dishwasher out about five inches. Neither of the springs were broken but one of the cables was broken. I changed both cables, slid the dishwasher back in place and replaced the screws. The whole job took about 20 minutes. It was a very easy job.

PartSelect web-page for this model listed the handle as the most often ordered part. It arrived the next day after the order. It was necessary to remove about a dozen Torx screws to remove the back from the door. The power was turned off at the breaker. Two electrical fittings were removed from the broken handle and placed on the new one, and the part was put into position and the door back screws reinserted. I was fortunate to have the appropriate Torx driver and suggest that PartSelect offer such an unusual tool with the part.

Very easy after watching the video. thanks

easy repair. The foam has to go over some wires but if you stretch it alittle as you place it all goes well