ABS45DF1BS General Electric Range - Instructions

easy, less then 15 min. but take off door first makes alot easier. and don't forget to unplug, like i did. just a few sparks but no damage thank god.

attached the element,pushed it back in the pocket,put the plate back on, screwed the nut and bolt back on and was done in less than 4 minutes!!

I watched the video on this website and it couldn't have been easier. The only thing I did differently was I took the door off for an easier reach. To take the door off, you open just a little and pull up. It makes it so much easier to get at the screws, and maked the repair a snap.

took 5 minutes with a nut driver and son. I had previously watch your video and went exactly as the video described and showed.

Disconnected the appliacnce from the power source. Using screwdriver, removed the back panel and disconnected every wire that are connected to the switch. Pulled out the front nob and removed the switch. Then install the new switch by screwing it back in. Place all wires back and back panel. Connect and finish.

followed the instruction from your video an it was a snap

Disconnected the power. Removed hex head screws from top and lower rear panel. I think there were 8 all together. Pull the knob of the burner control, removed two screws that held the switch in place. Moved the wires one at a time to the new switch, re-assembled. Burner worked properly. Very easy to find the right part from this web-site, and the instructions from others like this were helpful. Easy fix!

Checked each burner switch by disconnecting the light indicator wire. Located the switch, replaced the switch and the indicator light operated as it should.

I had to remove the back panel on the stove to free up taped wires to get more length.

best to pull stove out away from wall connect from behind stove

Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.

After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.

The burner light did not turn off, and the rear burner stayed hot. Unplugged unit and removed switch, which turned off the "burner lit" lamp. Thus I figured it was the switch that was causing the problem. Ordered the switch (I think around $18 and plugged it in. I think there were 4 screws to get the panel off, and then another 2 to get the switch off. When I plugged the unit back in (it had been unplugged while I waited for the part to ship) it beeped for a while. I had to turn the breaker on and off, and that solved the beeping problem.

Replace control switch

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .