A4425GDTBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the screws for the inner door and removed inner lining. Then took out the ice dispenser in the door. Took off control panel on the front of the ice panel. Removed the rusted parts and put in new parts. Put all parts back the way it came apart. In retrospect.... I could have possibly replaced the parts from the front panel but by taking apart the door...I had to thaw out the inner panel and insulation with in the door.

Removed the front panel on the door that has the ice maker controls. Removed the screws and parts. Reassembled the parts and it works better than new. Ice door closes firmly and holds tight.

removed ice tray, removed drive unit. removed solenoid and replaced, screwed on auger drive. reinstalled drive assembly. replaced ice tray. job done.

First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide.
I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place.
After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm.
The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.

First my wife and i took the panel off the back, unscrewed the old mainboard, unplugged all the switches from it and prayed that the new one would work. We were without a fridge for 2 weeks beginning 2 days before Christmas!!!!! Gingerly, we put the new board in place, screwed it into the fridge, connected the switches, attached the ground wire, and held our breath as we plugged it back in. Within seconds, the familiar sound of water filling the icemaker was hear and there were cheers all around!!!

From Google to PartsSelect. Reading the forum, the consensus was that to fix the nonworking dispensers the main refrigerator motherboard had to be replaced. I ordered it which is easy to do because the diagrams show all the parts clearly. Great website. I also ordered the front trim piece because I had snapped one of the prongs holding it on. They arrived quickly. The trim just snaps on the front which takes a few seconds. The motherboard which is just a circuit board, even came with replacement instructions. It takes a few minutes to wheel the refrigerator out, then take off the back panel (3 screws), unplug all the connectors, unsnap the circuit board, snap the new one in, plug the connectors in, reattach the back panel, and wheel the refrigerator back to the wall.

The water dispenser promptly froze up. To make sure that it is not the solenoid valve, unhook the water hose under the freezer door. Pressing in the water dispenser should pump water out of the hose onto the floor. It did for me. Since there is only plastic tubing after that, it has to be clogged with ice. I took a thermocouple, inserted the wire into the water dispenser outlet, it would only go in about 3 inches and displayed 31 F. I took a plastic funnel which slipped onto the end of the outlet and used a blow dryer to heat up the outlet a lot several times. Eventually the ice unfroze and it has been working ever since. I think if this happens again, I'll get a cheap aquarium aerator to pump air, for the hours it might take, through a thin tube (using wire insulation) to the frozen spot to melt the ice.

While the refrigerator was away from the wall, I took off the screws holding the large bottom panel in the back off. This exposes the condenser cooling which visually needed to be cleaned off with a vacuum cleaner. After doing this, it seemed to make the refrigerator run much more efficiently.

The refrigerator has been working perfectly for past month and it makes me so happy.

Checked the internet for reports of similar problems and concluded that it was probably the main control board. Not being particularly handy, I would never have attempted to change the board myself if I had not read the comments and instructions from people on this site. Thanks.

The job was as straight forward as others have described. The only time I had a problem was pushing in the white tab to be able to pull the old board out. That was a bit of a fiddle.

The only thing I found different was the grounding wire. On the original board, this wire was at the bottom of the board and hooked into a wire that ran into the refrigerator. On the new board, the wire was at the top of the board and had a metal loop on it. If I understand it correctly, with the new grounding system the wire is pushed into the space above the board. Then when the back plate is reattached the metal loop makes contact with it , thus grounding the refrigerator.
I chose to run the grounding wire through the original wire into the refrigerator. That meant cutting off the metal loop, slicing in an extra piece of wire to connect the grounding wire on the board to the grounding wire into the refrigerator.

I also now use a surge suppressor for the refrigerator. The “Moaning Myrtle” syndrome started after Hurricane Ike. I suspect the surge when the power was restored damaged the control board. And as so many people seem to have this “Moaning Myrtle” problem, I suspect the control board has little or no surge protection.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

I had taken the noise long enough and wanted to get this repaired. I didn't want to pay a repair man hundreds of dollars to do it so i decided to do it myself. I went on to YouTube and found a few videos that showed me how easy it was to do (very helpful).

I wasn't so sure all that noise would come from the Evaporator Fan motor so i ordered it and took the chance. For the small cost, it was worth the try.

All went well accessing the unit and removing the old part. Very fast indeed. However, the snag came when i went to plug in the new part electrical to the existing electrical adapters. The old part had 4 lead connections. The new part had 6. and the wires on the new part were different colors than the existing. I had to use some logic and courage to cut the wires on the new part and rewire the old adapter to this piece. Luckily, i wired everything correctly.

Calling Part Select got me a phone number for the parts manufacturer to help with the splicing but i opted to do it on my own.

The result is i have a noiseless refrigerator again. What should have taken 10 to 15 minutes took half an hour because of the wiring but overall, very easy.

I watched the "how-to" video on the website and decided that I needed to disassemble the icemaker first (before ordering parts) so that I could make sure I was ordering all the parts necessary for a complete repair. Good thing I did. I didn't notice the cracked cover and chipped nut until I had the icemaker all apart. I then ordered the necessary parts. When they arrived 2 days later, I set up a table near my computer so I could re-assemble the unit as I watched the repair video...pausing the video as necessary. It all went without a hitch and worked perfectly when re-installed in the freezer. **Note: I left the old parts out of the ice bucket while I was waiting for the new ones to arrive...taped up the gaping holes in the ice bucket with blue painter's masking tape and re-installed the bucket in the freezer with the icemaker on...so I could still manually retrieve ice out of the bucket. I left the switch on the front of the freezer door in the "water" position to remind me that I couldn't dispense ice. Water dispensing worked fine. The video is the key. Impossible to make a mistake if you pay attention.

Read your instructions, which were very helpful, and followed them to install. It took a while for me to realize that the threaded cap at the end of the auger was a left-hand thread. Other than that, I had no problems.

removed the depenser or ice collecter disassyble,replace the new auger and install the collecter tray in freezer.the bulbs i got was for use as i needed,at a later date i have not been able to fine the ice and water depenser bulbs on the open market.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

took one screw that held the whole fan housing on, its a tight fit to try and pull it out cause of the copper lines in the back so I just turned it enough to where I could get to the 2 screws on the fan bracket, took the old fan and the rubber grommets out and replaced them! Put everything back together and works like new! Nice and quite! Plus I saved about $200-300 if a tech. would have came and fixed it!

A. Gustafson
Colorado

Removed 3 screws from end of ice storage box,then removed auger asm.Removed c clip on end with flat screwdriver, then disasembled ice crusher blades and nylon/plastic washers.Carefully staging them for reassembly in the correct way.Use pliers to reinstall c clip after new auger is installed