9815VUV Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

I replaced both hinges and then the door would not stay open so I put one new hinge and one old hinge without a spring on. I did not see the old springs to know whether the new springs were stronger. it was a very simple and easy process. I pulled the oven out of the cabinet part way so I could access the screws and removed the old hinges and installed the new ones. push oven back in a replaced screws into the cabinet.

Turned breaker off to oven, removed two screws disconnected two wires. Reversed order to install. Piece of cake. Stuart,in va.

Turn off the electricity for the oven from the switch box. Unsure the damaged element from the unit. Pull it forward and unplug connections. Then plug the new element and use the new screws to screw it back to the unit. That's all

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Removed two screws. Gently pulled old element away from back of oven, exposing two wires. Disconnected the element from wires by pulling the ends apart with hands. Reconnected the wires with new element. LESS THAN FIVE MINUTES! Saved about a hundred bucks!. (Demo on You Tube.)

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I made the mistake of thinking that, if the oven was off, there would be no voltage to the heating element. Wrong! I removed the element, wearing rubber gloves just for safety, and had no problem. But when I put the wiring back on the new element and tried to slide it into the hole at the back of the oven, one of the wires brushed the metal, sparks flew, and melted one of the wires. Even though the oven was off, this wire was hot. The solution was, of course, just to turn off the circuit breaker, reconnect the wire, and slide the element back in. It works fine now.

I TURNED THE POWER OFF !!! removed the two screws holding the element in place, disconnected the two power wires, installed the new element. Done, in less than five minutes.

Unscrewed old element from back of oven, disconnected and reinserted new element and screwed back into place. Voila! So glad to have saved the cost of a repairman. Where I live this would have been a $200 repair(part and service call) easily. This repair took no time at all. Very please as to how fast Parts service got the part to me. I use my oven a lot, so I was lost without it.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

The instructions reviewed in the Maytag Parts web site provided very good information that told me how to remove and replace the heating element. It took me about 15 minutes to complete the replacement. The oven then began to function properly.

I am impressed with the rate I was sent the replacement. I received the replacement within 24 hours after I submitted the request for the product.