917289600 Craftsman - Instructions

Removed old clip removed rim from tractor, removed grease fitting on rim, took hammer and screw driver knocked out old bushing turned rim over knocked out other bushing. Press in new bushings reinstalled grease fitting slide tire back on tractor, put retaining washers on then locking clip put on dust cover grease at grease fitting. Repeat ... Read more other side.

The drive belt literally goes from the back of the tractor to the front. The mower must be removed, helps to have the tractor up on blocks to give adequate room for work on underside. Belt goes easiest on the engine first, then thread to the rear, install on the rear, (driven pulley) then on the idlers. Check to assure that it function ... Read more s properly before re-installing the mower. If you have the owners manual, there is a diagram, (check your orientation, it is not clear if it is a birdseye or under tractor view) which offered some help. When replacing belt, check the transaxle front mount, mine was broken which is why the belt came off in the first place. Repairing the mount was quite a job in itself, but now works fine.

I went to Troy-Bilt first first for the part-nothing, then B&S engine, still no help surfing their websites for this part. Again, no help. Before giving up completely I thought about all the parts I have bought from PartSelect for washers and such. Typed in "Fan-Flywheel" B&S. First thing that popped up was a picture of this part. All my ... Read more searching on Troy-Bilt mower site and B&S site for over two hours with no results, and then I go to PartSelect and without my model number or anything else, they had it and even displayed my model number and sent it right away, popped it in and the mower is working fine as ever. No matter what you need, I say save yourself a lot of time and just go here first. I'm a loyal member of PartSelect for over six years!!!

Removed head. Replaced both rocker arms, intake pus rod, push rod guide exhaust and head gaskets. Torqued head in 3 stages to 216 in/lbs. gapped intake to .004 and exhaust to .006 at TDC

Added oil and gas. Now running great

If you need to replace push rods use steel (exhaust) they are the same length
The engine ... Read more was a Briggs & Stratton 217802 0113 E10604 (2006 year date code)
I used the following
796189 gasket
272475S gasket
697494 push rod
690822 push rod guide
691751 rocker arms

Used this an old (maybe a 2007?) Briggs and Stratton 17.5 ho engine.This fan wasn’t an exact replica of the old one. But the bolt holes were in the right spot and it was the right size. Had to drill out the little dimples for the bolts and the fan guard that goes on top to stop debris didn’t screw directly into the fan like the old one. B ... Read more ut I was able to attach the guard to the engine cover/piece that houses the air filter with a plastic bracket/retainer that was already on the engine. Overall, easy install and fit just fine once I determined how I wanted to attach the fan guard

Just described it.

Underneath the console is a 10 mm nut took it off slip the grip off and installed new console took less than 5 min very easy repair

ALL VIDEOS and the official Husqvarna instructions will tell you that you MUST remove both the mowing deck and the entire clutch pulley assembly to switch the transmission drive belt. This is NOT true. It takes some effort and tight maneuvering, but this job can be done relatively quickly without removing either. You do NOT have to rem ... Read more ove the mowing deck! You do NOT have to remove the clutch pulley assembly! What I did was to stand the tractor up nearly vertical, resting it against a golf cart I have and tying it in place for safety. Then, you have to loosen two black belt guides right by the clutch pulley assembly. I did NOT remove them, just left them hanging loose. Next, there is a silver bar that comes in from the outside of the mower chassis and attaches directly to the clutch, remove this entirely. Next, there is an electrical cord assembly in the way, trace this back, find where it plugs in, and unplug it. Next, in order to be able to slide the belt fully over the clutch pulley assembly, you have to take the mower deck belt off of JUST THE ONE spindle closest. I tie wrapped it in place after getting it off the spindle so that I could easily put it back onto the spindle as the last step when done. Once the mowing deck belt is off the closest spindle, you can then slide the drive belt completely over the clutch pulley assembly. You can then easily remove the entire drive belt, taking note (I took pictures) of how it is routed. Then, just reverse all of this. I began by fitting the drive belt over the clutch pulley assembly to make sure that end was correct. I then put the previously mentioned two guides, silver bar, and electrical cord back in place. Next, I shoved the belt down where it goes, working it down towards the transmission and routing it correctly. Of course, it is a little difficult with the limited space available, but I would rather do that then needlessly take the entire mowing deck off. You finally have to CAREFULLY slide it over the PLASTIC fan blades on the transmission. Once past those, it slides easily in place. The last step is to put the mowing deck belt that you previously removed and tie wrapped in place back onto the spindle. That's it! Only takes about 30-45 min. done this way.

First I opened the top of the mower to expose the housing cover. Secondly I removed the four housing bolts to remove the housing cover from the mower. Next I removed the tube breather and installed the new tube breather and replaced the housing cover with the four bolts previously removed and closed the top of the mower. I filled the mow ... Read more er with gas to check for leaks which weren't any leaks. I proceeded to mow the lawn with ease.

Disassemble dryer. Replaced element assembly. Re assembled dryer. Unit runs and heats.

Parked mower on level concrete drive, laid on cardboard. Lowered mower deck all the way. Sparayed some WD40 on nut/bolt on top of old pulley. Since it is a carriage type bolt, placed 5/8" boxed end wrench over self locking nut on top of old pulley. Using some force from 3lb mallet to break nut free (hitting against wrench body), the nut c ... Read more ame off easy as did broken pulley/bearing inside. Installed new pulley assembly, re-tightened nut on bolt. Checked after first mowing just to be certain pulley was in place and locking nut tight.

Shimmed the wheels out on axle.. No more slop.