91193508991 Kenmore Range - Instructions

This burner is on a Monarch wood and electric range. The 8in burner shorted out and fried the switch. I had to remove the cover over the switch's. I marked each lead with paper and stapled the paper to the leads. When the switch came in I just had to reattach the leads.

The burner light did not turn off, and the rear burner stayed hot. Unplugged unit and removed switch, which turned off the "burner lit" lamp. Thus I figured it was the switch that was causing the problem. Ordered the switch (I think around $18 and plugged it in. I think there were 4 screws to get the panel off, and then another 2 to get the switch off. When I plugged the unit back in (it had been unplugged while I waited for the part to ship) it beeped for a while. I had to turn the breaker on and off, and that solved the beeping problem.

I am not very mechanical but from opening the part box to completing the job was half an hour at best.

Identified the switch that went bad. Order a new one and replaced it. The part came in a timely fashion and I am pleased with the result.

replaced with new ones

Slide out burner elements. Remove old burner bowls. Insert new burner bowls and reinstall burner elements.

Turn off power at main electric panel/ move stove away from wall and unplug cord from outlet. Take knob off the front take two screws off the panel, take back panel off and remove the used switch and take and replace the wiring to the new one , one at a time wire for wire. Then put back tighter in reverse of the way you took it off. Plug in cord and move stove back to the wall. Easy

watched it on parts select this is a real fast and simple install took longer to pull the range out of its position well started by shuting off the power then double checked that the range was deenergized removed the knob then the 2 screws then on the rear of the range removed the back panel about 8 screws used a nut driver then removed the old switch removed each wire one by one and pluged each wire into the new switch just as they were on the old switch the new switch was exactly the same so every thing matched up perfect installed the screws to the front which hold the swich in place then the back cover turned on the power and tested the switch every thing working ok done shut off power slid range back into its place turned power back on everything still ok

very important 1st step. switch power supply off too oven. the wires are too short to replace element without removing rear cover from stove. the wire slide tabs are then exposed for easy replacement of element.

I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.

Open oven door, unlock hinges and lift off. Lay on face on carpet or piece of cardboard. Remove 2 screws at top that go thru door and hold handle assembly. Remove 3 screws on bottom that hold bottom door trim to inner door. Carefully turn assembly over (hold it together so you don't drop the glass front!) and place back on floor, hinge side down. Lift off front glass and frame assembly. Lay flat on floor. Remove 4 screws that hold bottom door trim to side frames. If glass is stuck to bottom door trim (which it probably will be from rust and gunk)..... Remove 4 screws that hold side frames to upper handle assembly and completely lift glass and bottom trim out. Holding glass vertical, stand on the bottom trim piece and carfully work the glass up and out of the groove (do not wiggle it side to side or you will need to buy a new piece of glass). While you have everything apart, clean all the parts and remove the decade of gunk. Reassemble in reverse. The long screws at the top of the door that hold the upper handle assembly in place, have spacers around them, they thread onto the screws and maintain distance and alignment when re-assembling. Also, I found it easier to remove the handle from the upper piece (4 screws) to allow me to lay the whole assembly flat while screwing the bottom, side, and upper trim pieces together around the glass front. Once that is done, then put the handle back on before you assemble it to the inner oven door. That is it !

Removed the back top cover with 1/4" nutdriver. Removed the burner terminal block with 1/4" nutdriver. Within 15 minutes had the terminal block kit removed and installed and in service.

Required new light lens for oven this type has five (5) of them; only the oven temp light lens was damaged. Ordered from Parts Select.com received item fast in seven days. removed rear guard plate, than oven temperture switch than slid the neon light switch off of the light lens.Lens is removed from the front panel. Installation is reverse order.

Replace control switch

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.