9114558810 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Removed burner from each one. removed drip bowl. Inserted new bowl. Replaced burner. Excellent help from order people so I got the correct bowl was irreplacable.

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

Removed the burner elements, removed and disposed of old drip pans, cleaned the area, relaced with new drip pans and replaced the burner elements. Verified all burners were level - good as the day it was new!

This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!

The repair went ok. I did have to take the back off the stove in order to get to the wire connectors. Needed an extra person to move the stove out of it's location. Just had to be careful.

I did as the video suggested.....I cut the old wires and spliced new ones already attached to the new terminal block. It would have been nice to have some instructions with the parts as I expected one piece but had to connect the wires to the new block and the new metal cover. I was guessing a bit. Also, I needed to use the holder strip off my old part so that it displaced the new part back far enough to insert the burner connections. That meant finding a screw and nut small enough to allow the metal cover to fit on the block. But the burner works great. I've learned that any repair requires some ingenuity.

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.

the original path was from the right front control knob around the back of the range and left side of range,which i dismantaled to install the new wires to the right front burner. When I found them to be to short I had to also dismantal the right side so the wires could be routed there. The new wires worked fine but did take some extra time.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

shut off power to range, removed old element, looked up part on line, shopped for best price, Part select was $30 less than sears replacement part, ordered part, part arrived in 4 days, installed new part and I was broling again.

Pulled out old with pliers. Twisted new clips in per instructions.

I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficulty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?

My husband was able to easily remove and replace the switch and know with-in 15 minutes.