91136765690 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Unplugged the electrical.Removed the door, removed the oven racks and removed the bottom pan. Removed the wire nuts from the two wires. Removed the burner tube. Removed the Igniter. Installed in reverse order. It was very easy however it was the third igniter that I had to replace in this range so I was used to it.

Most videos show getting to the igniter module from the front when in fact with this older GE its accessed through the back left corner from the backside. So easy, a few screws and I was in. Quick change out and all worked well again.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

1. Slide oven door off hinge arms and set aside
2. Slide out oven bottom drawer and set aside
3. Detach springs from perforations in stove rails then hinges and set aside
4. Loosen three screws in each hinge, remove and set aside.
5. Remove hinges, threading them out through openings
6. Thread new hinges into stove openings. Align hinge arms with hinge wheels.
7. Align and tighten three hinge screws in each hinge.
8. Re-attach springs to perforations in hinge, then stove rails
9. Slide oven drawer into stove and door into hinge arms

Called in and talked to someone and he look yup what he thought was correct but after i got them theywere wrong so i sent them back for a full refund minus 9.90 freight. I still need to figure out what i need for my 27 inch wall oven. Please help. Thanks

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Removed six screws on the back panel. Just switched six wires from the old to the new module. Stove burners work perfectly now.

The replacement part not right size for the porcelain cone for gas. Had to unscrew 2 screws remove the cone, after unclicking gas wire. The gas spreader did not fit with the cone in place.

Real simple. Disengaged springs at the inside bottom, replaced hinges and reengaged springs.

1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?

After tilting the oven door out and sliding it up to remove it, I slid the storage drawer our completely from the range. After removing the spring that held the hinge assembly under tension, I removed 3 phillips head screws that held the existing assembly in place and removed it. After verifying the part you sent was an exact match, I reinstalled the new part, fastened the screws, attached the tension spring, installed the storage drawer, and then slid the oven door back in place on the brackets, completing the repair.

I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.

Removed the drawer at the bottom of the stove, then removed plate in rear covering the wires. unplugged the 2 wires coming from Igniter, then removed 2 1/4" srews holding the ignitor in place, took the old Ignitor and cut the 2 wires and spliced them to the new Ignitor reinstalled the new Ignitor in reverse order of removal. Saved over $110.00.

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.