91136759590 Kenmore Range - Instructions

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

Unpacked the glass, unscrewed the screws, slid the glass in and screwed the screws again.

First remove the broiler drawer. I laid on my side and reached into the oven to do the work, I first removed the one screw holding the splash plate (in the rear) and lifted the plate out. Then, removed the two screws mounting the ignighter to the burner base. Cut the wires on the old ignighter about half way between the connectors on the safety valve and the ignighter. I used a utility knife to strip 3/8" of the insulation on the wires still connected to the valve. Then, mount the new ignighter. Route the ignighter wires behind the gas tube. Use the enclosed ceramic wire nuts to connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve. Push the wire nuts into the hole behind the valve. Reinstall the splash guard and broiler tray.

Three were simple screw out and replace with a nut driver. The warming burner had a smaller opeining which was too large for the nut driver. Had to remove shielding aroound it first. Simple, job. My mother did the last one.

Followed instructions with replacements. Ordering was not that clear. Was asked the size of the bowls (large, medium, or small, and I measured them and all four bowls measured 9". I ordered 2 large bowls. However, that was not the measurment needed , it was the distance of the drilled hole and the igniter so I was able to use only one bowl. I have saved the other.
Mary Alice Krueger
Washington

I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!

Pulled off burner grates, burner, unscrewed burner bowl, removed clip from igniter and wire, then put it all back together. Was very easy, and the stove looks like new again.

PartSelect is very good with amazing shipment times. The kjpart arrived much sooner than expected.

This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.

This oven is from 1993 and a lot less complicated than today's models probably are. The first things to do are to remove the oven door and broiler pan. On this model, the oven door simply lifts off the hinges. Once these are gone, you want to remove the oven floor. To remove, locate the two screws at the back of the floor. After removing, lift the floor up and towards the back to pull the floor tongue out of the groove in the front. This will expose the gas jet and ignitor assembly. At the front of the jet pipe is a screw that holds the pipe to the front center of the frame - it is underneath so you may have to bend over to see it, it can be felt easily as well. Remove this screw, this will allow the pipe to be moved a little later. In front of the assembly is a vertical metal plate with a screw at the right of the mounting the plate into the broiler floor. Remove the screw and slide the plate to the left to pull out another tongue/groove set-up. Now you should see the wires completely and the connection to the air-flow adjuster. There is a small screw in the front of this brass fitting, it does not need to be touched. Turn the burner pipe clockwise while lifting and this should pop the assembly up. The ignitor is mounted to the burner pipe by 2 screws that are found on the bottom of the mount. Remove the 2 screws, this will allow the ignitor to hang free. Be sure to pay attention to what wire attaches to what wire, I marked the left wire so that I knew which to reconnect to after the change over. Remove the caps on the wires if this unit has been removed before, if not then mark the wires on both the replacement unit and the original wires. My ignitor has been replaced before, so I used my wire cutter to clean-up the ends of the old connection before reconnecting the new replacement. At this point, you should be able to fire-up the oven, it might take a moment for the new one to warm up, so give about 30-40 seconds. If the oven fires up, it's then working to put everything into place in reverse order. I like to line up the parts and pieces as I remove so I can just put back in reverse.

Took top off, removed wires from old spark module and put them on new one. Very easy and quick, works very well now.

STOVE Much easier to perform than expected. First, pull the plug. Second, lift door off hinges and remove bottom storage door. Then remove bottom tray (2 thumbscrews) and the head spreader below that (1 screw). Now disattach the two wire nuts that attach the igniter to electric (from bottom, where door was). I guess this has been changed once. If it had not been, might have had to cut these lines. Then, back inside the stove, remove the flame delivery tube or whatever it's called. It kind of twists as it pulls up. From there, it's easy to disattach the igniter with a wrench and then reassemble all in reverse order. Hardest part was getting one of the wire nuts to take. One of the replacement ones just did not grab, so reused one of the preexisting.
OVEN Only hard part was getting the stovetop to release. Take off all the burner guards and such. Then lift the top slightly to locate the two push clips. Push each back in turn with a screwdriver, and this releases the stovetop, which rises up until it rests on two rests. Piece of cake to remove th electrode and attach new one.
All working fine!