9113042992 Kenmore Range - Instructions

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

It was fairly difficult. I pulled out the old racks and put in the new.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Shut off electrical breaker to oven Remove front control panel by removing screws in the upper oven. Disconnect wiring to remove panel make sure you tag/mark where the wire harness connects to the pan. Disconnect electrical feeds from motor. Remove 4 motor assembly mounting screws. (maybe tight but it can be done). Clean screen before installing new motor. I couldn't get the lower screw in, so only replace 3 of 4 screws. Reverse instructions by re-connecting harness(s) and control panned and ave screws. Turn on electric breaker. All good

Followed the instructions

Easy

By myself

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

First I turned off the breaker to the oven and then turned off and disconnected the gas line where it enters the house. I then removed the control panel housing using a 1/4" socket drive and phillips screwdriver to expose the old oven controller (WB27K5202). Following the directions sent with the new substitute controller (WB27T10324), I was able to reconnect most of the old leads to the new controller. The directions do not tell you what to do with the old leads named "L," "FAN," or "COM" though so my oven is still inoperable. I've posted my problem on several appliance repair sites but haven't had any luck finding out where the old leads go on the new controller. My next step is to call an appliance repairman and hope that he can help. Failing that I will have the old controller remanufactured by CG Industries. It's a crying shame that the directions sent with this new controller do not explain what to do with all the leads from the old controller, especially when they have a diagram of the old controller (with all leads illustrated) on the second page!

Remove the control panel cover, disconnect wiring on the fan, unbolted the existing unit, installed the new unit, reconnect wiring, reinstalled the control panel cover. Test unit. Job completed satisfactory.

This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.