7MT2210SJB0 - Instructions

Take off cover then the bottom. Transformer is on the bottom plate and wires won't let it come all the way off, too many wires to pull off so will have to position the bottom plate so you can get to the motor. Remove 1 screw on motor and remove motor. Install new motor connect wires replace bottom plate, replace cover. All done (hope & pray it works ok) mine worked perfect. Hope this helps.

I searched a few sites for a repalcement for our model.
PartSelect was BY FAR the EASIEST! I just entered the model number selected the part and that was it.
Other sites just weren't so easy even with the model nimber.
Shipping was lightning quick and resonable for the part.
I'd definitly use them again!

I UNPLUGGED the microwave and removed the cover, using a phillips and a Torx screwdriver for the machine screws. I set these screws aside, so as not to confuse them with the later encountered screws. I photographed the magnetron to assure proper placement of the 6 phillips machine screws involved in reassembly (marking the the locations on the old magnetron would do as well. I marked the old magnetron "old", to avoid later confusion. I removed the two screws holding the shields to the magnetron. I removed 3 of the 4 screws holding the magnetron to the microwave, leaving one of the top screws. I held the magnetron securely and removed the last screw, pulling out a the part of the magnetron that penetrated the microwave. I installed the new magnetron in reverse order. One problem I encountered was locating one of the six screws, which had been pulled into the old magnetron by magnetism.

Removed door from microwave and then popped the inside widow trim ring off. Removed 4 screws from the window bracket, replaced the latch with a new part and then assembled.

Initial failure of over range microwave Aug 3rd. Control Panel worked but no heat. Took to local LG authoriaed local repair place. They fixed it quickly and we re-installed it. Worked fine for 2 months then had similar failure again. Agaim took to same authorized repairer. They kept unit for 3 months but finally concluded theu could not fix it and suggested we contact LG for a partial refund. When they tested the unit during re-assembly in my presence, there was a blue flash and the fuse blew. Since we had built a custom tile mural back splash around this unit, I brought it home, ordered a number of time delay fuses new capacitor and two new high voltage diodes. However, using my Fluke DMM, I checked the existing capacitor and high voltage diode and they checked OK so I just replaced the time delay fuse. The high voltage transformer leads had 2 possible ways to connect to capacitor and diode. Tried one way, plugged unit in and turned it on, and immediatly blew the fuse. Replaced the fuse and reversed the high voltage transformer connections,amd turned unit pn, and it worked perfectly. Since we had experienced several power failures during the time of the original failure, the repairer concluded that power spikes might be at fault, so I also purchased a TrippLite ISOBAR4ULTRA 3300 Joule surge protector between wall outlet and microwave, and re-installed over range. It has worked perfectly since.

Ice covered the top back of the freezer compartment. This did not allow the cold air to move up to the fridge. Complete defrosting (36hrs) fixed the problem. There was a lot of water, from ice inside, that was not visible. We realized the freezer drawer must have been left cracked open. Thanks so much.

Replaced the diode (aka wire-vltge) in the HV circuit after removing cabinet cover using both the secure torx screw drvr & phillips head screw drvr. The hardest part of the job was finding the secure torx nut drvr tool on the internet & purchasing same.

Overall repair quite simple. Removed screws from the sides and rear of the microwave, then removed cover. Next, removed only the screws to separate the bottom cover. Removed the one screw in the AC Synchronous motor to remove the motor (had to use small screwdriver through a vent slot in the bottom to remove the screw). Unplugged and removed motor. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: on the back of my appliance were 4 torx screws with a tamperproof pin in the center. I used the rotary tool to grind out the pins so I could use a regular torx bit instead of ordering specialty bits.

I started by calling a reputable service company to diagnose my problem. The repair tech told me it was the magnetron and it was a "very difficult" repair that required two people because the over-the-range unit needed to be taken down. I asked for a detailed estimate. He quoted $550 including parts and labor. After he left, I researched the part costs on this site and realized his costs were very inflated. I purchased the magnetron for $220. It arrived at my door two days later. Installation was very easy. First, I unplugged the unit. Then, while my wife was making sure it did not fall off the wall bracket, I unscrewed the two mounting screws from the top of the cabinet. I lifted the unit down from the wall and set it on the kitchen counter. The shell needed removed from the microwave which involved about 20 screws. This provided access to the magnetron on top. The magnetron is secured by five screws and a plug. I unplugged it, unscrewed it, and removed the old part. Then, I installed the new magnetron, and tested the microwave to make sure this did the trick. It worked. I put the outer shell back on the microwave and cleaned the microwave. (This is a great opportunity to clean the areas you do not typically see!). I then remounted the unit and plugged it back in. Saved myself a bit of money so I took the family out to dinner and a movie to celebrate. Microwave was in working order for heating up left overs the next day! Thank you!!!

Eight screws off the bottom exposed the cover plate. Easily found the motor location the looked up the item number and verified data and ordered the part. Replaced the motor, tightened the screws and flipped it upright. Plugged it in and the lights came on. Set a time pushed start and smiled! The eagle had landed!!!!

The door was not engaging the micro switches properly no doubt from 10+ years of wear. The upper switch removed fairly easily but take care not to tweak the plastic brace too much or it will snap. The lower one was the tricky one. After much examination I noticed that the trick to remove it was underneath the brace. Take a butter knife (no joke) and insert it just under the old micro switch and gently press down twisting the micro switch every so slightly til it releases. The replacements snap back in with no trouble. The microwave is working much better now, though not perfect.

Since others reported similar problems and it was just the fuse we tried that first. That wasn't the problem so we ordered the Door Interlock Switch Kit. Shipping was very fast! Our microwave had 3 switches. My husband asked how to know which one to switch. I read that one person just did process of elimination. Luckily ours worked on the first change out! So happy to have stumbled across this site and not have to buy a whole new microwave.

unplug the unit then pull down , lot of screws are on top. open the cover . you could see the parts that need to replace on the right hand side (heavy side). disconnect wires then test the parts that need to replace by a tester to make sure that it's really broke .then unscrew part and replace .

remove 4 screws from top, front louvered panel snaps out. remove 1 screw from top of keypad, keypad pivot's forward and can be removed. There is a white mounting bracket inside left. Remove two screws, one top and one bottom, bracket lifts up and out. 3 sets wires are attached, mark them with masking tape, top, center, bottom and pull out plugs. They can only attach one way. Using a very small screw tip, lift plastic latch from switch, it rotates out and is removed from the pivot pin. reassemble in reverse order after switches are replaced

1. Remove the trim frame off of the front of the cabinet (4 Phillips screws). At this point, take glass plate and turntable frame out of unit. 2. Slightly lift the unit off the cabinet frame (which is attached to the cabinet) so the feet on the microwave allow the unit to clear the frame and then remove microwave from the cabinet. 3. Once slightly removed from the cabinet, unplug the unit before completely removing it from cabinet. 4. Take 2 Phillips screws out of the side panels. 5. Take about 6-7 T20 Star Pin screws out of the back of the panel. (This may require you to purchase this special tip if you don't have it in your toolbox). 6. Slide the microwave cabinet toward the rear of the unit (the front portion clips into the frame ... don't try prying it off because you'll damage the unit). 7. Completely remove the microwave cabinet housing. 8. Be careful not to damage or catch any internal wiring inside the unit while the cover is off. 9. Turn unit on it's back and remove 4-5 Phillips screws holding the bottom cover in place. Remove bottom cover. 10. Now notice that the turntable motor is completely exposed. 11. Remove the wiring harness from the motor (notice which connection clip has the black wire). 12. Remove the one Phillips screw holding the motor to the frame. 13. Clean around the area in case food spills may have gotten into the area. 14. Insert new motor, put Phillips screw back in and attach power connection. 15. From this point on, just reverse steps to re-assemble microwave and put back in cabinet. 16. Test new turntable motor. 17. Enjoy the smile from your wife because she can now use the microwave!