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7MMVWH450DW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 7MMVWH450DW0
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Leaking water inlet hoses.
Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.
Parts Used:
Inlet Hose - 5 FT
  • Helen from NASHUA, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
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When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Parts Used:
Washer Drive Pulley
  • TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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washer was draining but no spinning
Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws.
Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.
Parts Used:
Shift Actuator - 120V 60Hz
  • JOSE from MILLBURY, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Stripped screws on a hub drive replacement
Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.
Parts Used:
Screw, 8-16 x 1.000
  • Bruce from GLOBE, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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wasn't cleaning very well
Went with the instructions
Parts Used:
Drive Belt Washer Drive Pulley Drive Hub Kit
  • Brian from GREENBRIER, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Washer -Maytag Centennial- would NOT agitate. It would run through all cycles as indicated by the lights and even spin at the end, but never agitated. It also did not appeared to go into "sensing" mode at the start. Took a long time to move from "sensing" light to "wash" light. Did not hear or see a
There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair:
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.

I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.
Parts Used:
Shift Actuator - 120V 60Hz
  • Maxwell from RINGWOOD, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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washer would not spin on wash cycle
My daughter is the handy one in the family. She followed Steve's video installation steps and in an hour i was washing clothes.
Parts Used:
Shift Actuator - 120V 60Hz
  • Kim from MOUNT UNION, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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During the Spin cycle the washer was noisy and moved around
I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no tools to accomplish.
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!
Parts Used:
Drive Hub Kit
  • JOHN from HERNANDO, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Wash plate spinning. Clothes not spun out.
Royal pain getting the wash plate off. I'm 6 foot 215 lbs with muscular arms( beer belly too) and I could not get it to come off. Put hay bail twine around the edge and pulled up so hard the entire machine came off the ground. Luckily I am married. Yep I pulled one end of the string and her the other and it flew off. Part select was $10 cheaper than whirlpool and was a perfect match. I might order another to have because like stated earlier I'm married. She is married to me and the washer and dryer.
Parts Used:
Drive Hub Kit
  • Gregory from GREENFILD TWP, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Washer wouldn’t drain and spin
First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.
Parts Used:
Screw
  • Thomas from KENT, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Burning smell, ASSUMED it was the belt
Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • James from MAHWAH, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Washer gets stuck on Rinse and not complete the cycle.
Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
Parts Used:
Lid Latch Assembly
  • Charles from SEALY, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Parts Used:
Washer Drive Pulley
  • Angelo from PORTLAND, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Lid wouldn't lock
Removed 5 screws on back, released 2 retention clips on front, lifted top of washer to expose lock assembly, removed 2 screws holding lock assembly in place followed electrical line back to plug behind control panel plugged new lock in, and reassembled in reverse order. Done!
Parts Used:
Lid Latch Assembly
  • James from INDIAN LAKE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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violent basket wobble
remove basket and replace drive hub kit
Parts Used:
Drive Hub Kit
  • Keith from DUNBARTON, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the 7MMVWH450DW0
31 - 45 of 62