7GU3800XTVY6 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled dishwasher out from under counter. Relaced cord with plastic hook attaching spring to door. Very easy.

Very impressed with Partselect.com. Full schematic of dishwasher made it easy to select part.

Delivered in 1 day. Fantastic. Highly recommend

removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure

First I unplugged the dishwasher.Then I removed 6 Torx screws, popped off cover, cut wires to old fuse, stripped wire, placed wires in new part, tightened screws, reassembled in reverse order, plugged unit back in and tested. WOO HOO!

I saved over $150.00 by doing it myself instead of having a repairman come out! That's 4 free fishing trips!

1. Removed six screws securing outer panel to dishwasher door.
2. Removed outer panel which exposed back of dispenser.
3. Remover six screws holding dispenser.
4. Removed dispenser.
5. Installed new dispenser.
6. Replaced six screws.
7. Reattached electrical connection to dispenser relay.
8. Reinstalled outer panel with six screws.

Put thread tape on threads. Screwed water hose to part. Pushed hose onto part. Pushed electric clip to part. Screwed part onto washer. Done

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.

I removed inner face of door, cut wires leading to door switches, and then installed the new door switches and wire harness.

After I took apart the inside of the door, removing 12 star screws, I was able to see the inside of the automatic soap dispenser device. Since I now had the new device to look at, I was able to replace the latch pin back in the existing device and it worked!

I now have a replacement if the device actually breaks in the future and looking at the small plastic pieces, it will probably happen sooner or later.

Removed the Bi-Metal fuse and ordered a new one and recerved it two days after ordering. Replaced it and it worked.

I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassembled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!

Figuring out what was wrong: various reset methods didn't work. Since lights were blinking, it was not a fuse. Keypad ruined? Controller board ruined? I decided on the latter and ordered. 1. Removed Torx screws from the back of the washer door. 2. Removed several connectors from the circuit board, then the board itself. 3. Sat still and grounded myself to dissipate static electricity, then inserted the connectors on the replacement circuit board. 4. Reassembled the door and replaced the Torx screws. 5. Closed the door and started a rinse cycle. 6. Waited and waited and waited while the circuit board did a reset or self-test or whatever. 7. Finally, there were no lights, started a wash cycle. 8. VOILA! It works!

I ordered this part after the sanitized light on my dishwasher was flashing. The dishes were no longer drying. To replace the part, my husband pulled out the dishwasher and unscrewed some nuts (accessing under the heater through the side openings). The entire repair took under 15 minutes, and works perfectly. I have to mention that the heater was shaped differently than the one it replaced, but was a perfect fit in the clips.

Removed dishwasher from under the counter and took it to my shop. With the washer on its side, I removed the motor, then the impeller and seal. I then disassembled the motor and replaced the front bearing(purchased separately). This required an arbor press. I then reassembled the motor and installed the new seal and impeller. Reassembled in reverse order. Reinstalled under the counter and made conections. Checked for leaks and proper operation.

My KitchenAid dishwasher's upper dishrack had several places that were completing rusting out, just leaving the skins of the plastic coating in place. I ordered the upper dishrack - just the dishrack, none of the clips or other items shown in the schematic - and installed it pretty easily. One caution - this is JUST the upper dishrack. If you have two rows of tines that are clipped in and flip-flop back and forth on the left and right wider sides of the rack, you will need to order one or two pieces of part # PS 898500 as well. One of my tine rows was in salvageable shape, so I only needed to order one (in a second order upon discovering I it wasn't included). It wasn't difficult to figure out how the clips could come out and snap back in place. Just be careful, know that these are just plastic items and can break easily.

Remove two screws at top that fasten dishwasher to cabinet. Slide dishwasher out to expose the two links that attach the door to the springs. Fit the new links to the springs and door.