79077476791 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First took apart oven door. then took out broken glass and replaced with new glass.Put everything back together done.

Removing the drip pan and the bottom burner cover exposed the igniter, removing two screws retaining the bracket freed the old igniter. Removing the warming drawer allowed access to the control module to unplug the wiring on the ignitor. After making myself a diagram, I unplugged the wires and removed the malfunctioning igniter. Cutting the leads off the old igniter long enough to splice it on below the oven bottom with the enclosed wire nuts and attaching the new igniter (reusing the old insulation to protect the wire) took only minutes and reassembly was straightforward.

New igniter: $60
Repairman fee saved $150
Being able to tell my wife "See,
I told you I could fix it!" PRICELESS

See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.

Got a copy of the parts breakdown for the oven door from partselect. Com. Removed 8 screws from outer frame (3 top, 3 bottom, 1 on eah side). Removed the main glass pane from oven door, be careful when doing this as this is most of the weight of the door. It will want close on its own due to lack of weight. Removed the 2 top screws that attach the handle. Removed some screws from some plates that retain the 2 panes of glass of glass. Removed the third (most inner, broken) pane of glass. Replaced with new one. Reversed disassebly procedure for assembly.

I had to remove the whole back of the stove in order to gain access to the timer which is housed on the top console of the stove. There was 8 different leads and a wiring harness to keep track of. I had a friend help and after a good two hours we finally got it. I was never able to remove the top console so had to resort to a bit of prying to gain access to all of the screws. The manufacture did not make this an easy project. The part was rather expensive but with some thought and patients I now have a clock timer with a bright LED display with only one screw left over.

First I removed the oven door from the range by removing 2 screws from the door. Next I removed 2 more screws from the oven door to get to the panel beneath. Once the top portion of the door was removed there were 4 nuts holding the glass sections together. Once these nuts were out I removed the broken class, replaced it with the new glass and reassembled. It was a very easy and quick project. I was so happy to find the part. I thought I was going to have to buy a new range. Thanks.

Relatively easy to install once you get to the item.

Removed the front panel, top panel, original clock timer.
(15+ screws)
The leads were stuck and had to be pried out with a knife. As I removed one lead I inserted it into the same on the new panel.((eight leads various colors.)
One connector to remove and insert into new panel.
Done!!!! It worked!!! EXCEPT;
After putting it all together I discovered that the push buttons were not included with the unit. I had to pry out the old ones and reuse them on the new timer.

If it hadn't been for the push buttons the whole job would have taken about an hour.

Oh, just a reminder, turn off the eletricity. I forgot to and lit up a bit.

Disconnected power cord to range
Removed the cover over the flame guard
Removed the Flame guard
Pulled out broiler drawer
Unscrewed the cover and disconnected the white plastic connector to the ignitor wires
Un crewed the two small screws to the ignitor and removed the old ignitor
Cut the two wires from the old ignitor
Connected the new ignitor to the wires on the white connector
Installed the new ignitor
Reassembled parts dsassembled
Plugged in power cord

Works

Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly

Screw the handle, that it...

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

I followed Ryan's instructions and had no problem following them. HOWEVER, I ENCOUNTERED A MAJOR PROBLEM when I put it all back together: the control buttons wouldn't work. I took it apart again and examined the old one, which had plastic pins in the holes which the buttons were supposed to push. The new part didn't have the pins. I wanted to remove the pins from the old part and put them in the new one. This was difficult, and I broke the first one when I removed it. (I ended up super-gluing it together successfully.) In order to remove the other pins, I pried and pinched with needle-nose pliers to remove the plastic collar around the pin, then the pin came out easily and could be inserted in the new part, pushing hard until it clicked in place. Then when I put everything together it worked fine.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

Having already removed the old igniter , replaced it with new.