66595824005 Kenmore Range - Instructions

1. Disconnected power from my oven.
2. Removed several screws that held the control block
3. Removed two screws that held the switch itself disconnected wires and removed switch
4. Reconnected all wires to new switch (no soldiering gun required)
5. Put control block back

Overall - very easy

The web site was easy to navagate and locate the correct part. The part was in stock and shipped the next day and was delivered in 3 or 4 days. All total the replanement was less than a week. The replacement was easy except it took a second person to hold the glass in place while i threaded the hold down screws fron underneath. I could not hold the glass and thread the small screws with just my two hands, plus having to thread the screws from the bottom was more difficult, but all in all it was simple and now we have a new unbroken glass front oven door.

I removed the two screws that held the element in place . I think pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires. I put the new element in and connected the two wires. I went to put the element back in and something sparked and burned up the wire. Lesson learned - turn the electricity off first. I had to pay a repair man to come out and replace the wire.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

switched out latch asy,rear

Turned off power.Removed 2 screws, flipped top over, removed old element, replaced new element,turned over top,fasten down with 2 screws.Turned on power. Turned on burner,made coffee-took a brake.

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.

I'm still unsure why it broke ,but it was just a matter of removing two screws that hold the handle in place and sliding in the glass...

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

ordered new front and replaced

My husband had no problem at all with the replacement of the exterior glass.
Slipped it in and attached to hooks and secured with the handle with a screw driver. Be sure to remember the trim doesn't cover the glass it kind of sits behind it. It can be deceiving in a way you may think in sits in front of the glass. Otherwise it was quite easy and the part came quickly in less than 24 hours....this is a great site.

My husband pulled the back off of the stove and took out the electronic control panel. All we had to do was to pull off the wiring to it. We took the new control panel and plugged everything back into it, put it in place, and the stove was working within an hours time. This definitely saved us alot of money by doing it ourselves and it was pretty easy too. Thanks!

Shut down breaker; remove stove back cover plate (8 screws); remove the control knob; remove knob screws (2); simply remove one wire at a time and replace the coresponding wire to the new control unit; remove the snap ring on the knob bar and snap off to fit the proper length; place the control unit in position and reinstall the 2 screws; reinstall the back panel; position stove and turn throw the stove breaker on; test the burner control.