66575024100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

First make sure it is the gas valve not the ignitor. If the clicking sound still happens then the ignitor is fine, no clicking means ignitor may be broke and try to fix that first because it is cheaper. For us I knew it was the valve because the ignitor still clicked and the broil and top elements still worked. After the part arrived I turned off the gas and pulled the power to the oven. Disassembled all the components taking pictures along the way to remember what it looked like to go back together. Installed the new valve and use yellow gas tephlon tape at the seals. Put components back in reverse order. Run the top elements first to get gas in all the gas lines and remove the air. At this point the oven bakes again.

Took off outer trim. Put new glass in and returned trim. Very easy, looks great.

Took off the screws on the back of the stove and took out the sensor, and put in the new one.

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

First time was very difficult I tried to make the panel fit into the frame. Broke both side pieces of the trim.Even thouth I broke the trim PartSelect replaced them. I did not expect that.Second time it was easy. Remove the handle first and then the panel slides into the top and bottom only. It does not slide into the side of the frame but sits on top of it. Thanks, Allen

Remove oven racks. Remove bottom of oven. Mine was held in place by two large screws in the back part of the oven. They did not screw into anything. Lift out bottom from the rear. Remove burner cover plate by lifting the front and pulling out. Mine was not screwed in. The igniter is mounted on the burner and held by two 5/16 small bolts. The top one is easily accessible. The bottom is a real witch. You need 1/4inch socket set with universal connector to remove. There is a single wire attached to igniter by a wire clip. The wire is accessible by removing the bottom pan storage drawer under the oven door. Unclip the old attach the new. Screw two small bolts back in and replace things you took out. TURN GAS AND ELECTRICITY OFF BEFORE YOU BEGIN. Parts select should allow the igniter to be sold separately rather than connected to the burner. I only replaced the igniter. Replacing the burner would be a real chore.

I broke the old trim when cleaning. New trim kit went together great. No screws needed because of new design. Best tip I can give is that the side trim pieces around the oven door go behind the glass on the door not in front of the glass. Visual instructions would be great.

removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.

We needed a repair man to do the job because we did not have the tool to remove the screws on the burner heads. Also the on line diagram was not accurate. It actually was much simpler than showed in the diagram. Had we done the job, we would have done a lot of dismantling. The repair man removed the old top in a flash and the whole job took about 40 minutes. He knew what he was doing. Detailed instructions should come with the part so the do-it-yourselfer could figure out how to do the job.

First remove the oven racks and the burner cover in the bottom of the oven. There are two phillips screws near the back. Loosen the screws but it is not necessary to completely remove them. Pull out the bottom cover and this will expose the burner. There is one phillips screw at the front of the oven and one at the back. Remove these screws and set aside. You should be able to remove the burner and unplug the wire connected to it. Replace with a new burner in the reverse order. Plug in the wire and make sure the new burner is seated properly over the gas valve. It lines up pretty easily. Put the rear screw back in but be careful not to drop it into the hole otherwise you will have to use a magnet to retrieve it or pull the oven out because it will be on the floor. Replace the front screw and put everything else back together. Pretty easy job

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

Removed old trim kit and handle installed new parts but was having problems with glass fitting between handle and bottom bracket there was a gap between glass and handle when installed fist time after disassembling again I found that the door frame it self had to be tapped back into alignment to be square but once the adjustments were made the installation was a breeze

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

Replaced both rollers....Quick and Easy!!