66572022100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

First time was very difficult I tried to make the panel fit into the frame. Broke both side pieces of the trim.Even thouth I broke the trim PartSelect replaced them. I did not expect that.Second time it was easy. Remove the handle first and then the panel slides into the top and bottom only. It does not slide into the side of the frame but sits on top of it. Thanks, Allen

Remove oven racks. Remove bottom of oven. Mine was held in place by two large screws in the back part of the oven. They did not screw into anything. Lift out bottom from the rear. Remove burner cover plate by lifting the front and pulling out. Mine was not screwed in. The igniter is mounted on the burner and held by two 5/16 small bolts. The top one is easily accessible. The bottom is a real witch. You need 1/4inch socket set with universal connector to remove. There is a single wire attached to igniter by a wire clip. The wire is accessible by removing the bottom pan storage drawer under the oven door. Unclip the old attach the new. Screw two small bolts back in and replace things you took out. TURN GAS AND ELECTRICITY OFF BEFORE YOU BEGIN. Parts select should allow the igniter to be sold separately rather than connected to the burner. I only replaced the igniter. Replacing the burner would be a real chore.

I broke the old trim when cleaning. New trim kit went together great. No screws needed because of new design. Best tip I can give is that the side trim pieces around the oven door go behind the glass on the door not in front of the glass. Visual instructions would be great.

removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.

We needed a repair man to do the job because we did not have the tool to remove the screws on the burner heads. Also the on line diagram was not accurate. It actually was much simpler than showed in the diagram. Had we done the job, we would have done a lot of dismantling. The repair man removed the old top in a flash and the whole job took about 40 minutes. He knew what he was doing. Detailed instructions should come with the part so the do-it-yourselfer could figure out how to do the job.

Took the old one out and replaced it with the new one, fits perfect.

Remember how you remove the glass. The side brackets go under the glass.

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

Remove old grate and replace with new one.

removed old and installed new

Removed the old burner and instlled the new one. It works great and I am a hero!

Lifted the top disconnected the old valve and replaced with a new one.I believe the valve should have been shipped with two gaskets,. One for the bottom and another for the top. I reused the old one on the top with no problem but would have preferred a new one.

I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.