6654098451 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I very simply replaced the gasket where it belonged and I was good to go!

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

easy enough, just remember the order if disassembly and reverse for instqllation

We looked at SEVERAL postings on this site. We ARE NOT DYIers. The descriptions on how to do this repair were super helpful. When we read that it only took 30-minutes and was easy, we thought, "Well, they haven't met us!" On the contrary, we got through this without one marital issue. It did take both of us and was kind of like a puzzle. It took us somewhere between 30-60 minutes. We left the door on and worked our way through screw by screw, panel by panel and "voila!" -- we were able to turn on the oven that night without it exploding!! Thank you Part Select and all of the DYIers that post on this site!

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

Remove the 3 Phillips screws along the bottom of the door, 2 screws on the inside and 2 screws on the top edge near the handle. Take off the outer door. Clean out the dust etc with a Vac. Tape the inner glass to the inside of the door so it doesn't slip loose later. Close the door. Remove the 4 screws under the foam to take off the middle window asm, not the 4 screws holding just the middle glass. Now when you remove this assembly the inner glass is not supported(this is why you taped it) so do not jar or lower the inner door yet. Now that the middle assembly is off support the inner glass with one hand and lower the door. Remove the tape and remove the glass. Now install the new glass being careful the gasket is in place. Reinstall everything in reverse.

Remove the door. This takes less than a minute. pull the door up and out. have a friend help you do this. Set it on a table and remove the outside panel screws and separate the outer face cover from the inner. this will expose the many glass window. the inner window has screws hidden under foam strips. these four screws must be removed to gain access to all other window panes. clean and replace as needed, then reassemble. Be carful not to drop the glass panels. also make sure that any insulation is reinstalled. Reinstall the door back into the spring loaded hinges. done

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Fast shipping and the part was very easily installed.

The element comes with the element attached to the bracket that holds it in place in the top of the oven. I had removed the 2 screws-one on each side--on the old element and disconnected the spade connections on the wiring after I pulled the element out far enough to expose them. I then reconnected the new element, pushed it back into place and re-installed the screws that hold it in place. A pretty simple job but I got a tremendous feeling of accomplishment after it was done. Saved a bunch of $$$ also!!

1. Open the oven door (about 4 inches) until it hits that first spot that it stays open by itself. 2. Put a pin or small screwdriver in the tiny hole in the hinges - this will keep them from snapping back and also make it easier to put the door back on. 3. Pull up on the door until it comes off the hinges. 4. Lay the door on the table with the inside down - remove the 2 screws from the top of the door and the 3 screws from the bottom - pull cover off and lay to the side. 5. Use nutdriver to remove next panel - they are located under the strip of foam along the sides, 2 on each side. 6. Use nutdriver to remove 6 screws around the pane of broken glass. 7. Replace glass then do steps in reverse to get the door back together. 8. Slide door back onto the hinges, remove the pin or small screwdrivers from hinges. Voila! New glass, no problem!

I oedered a new unit matched with the Model Number! Installed .It did not work.They said Part amybe defectice.They quickly sent out another.That was installed and did not work.I contacted them again and they sugessted the Modular unit that regulated the Heat Temp. They were discontinued. They suggested I contact Corecentic Solution.com which I did.I am now in the process of shipping out my Modular Element to have it rebuilt. My stove is over 20 Yrs old .It inly costs me $110.00 to fix ourselves. Thank YouParts Select.com. You saved me over $1700.00 It would have cost to buy a new stove. They also gave me a full refund on the two units they shipped out. They are a wonderful helpful Company and will take care of your parts needs. Thanks Again Joyce

Unplugged the range, took the bad element out, and inserted the new one. Plugged the range back in. It worked fine....

First, turn off the breaker to the oven, then turn off the service disconnect to the whoe house. I play safe.) Open the door, pull out the oven racks to allow space. Using a Phillips screw driver, unscrew the screws near the front of the oven to loosen the element. Using both hands, pull the element straight out of the holes in the back of the oven, where you will find electric wires attached to them. Pull the ends of the element off the wire connectors. Throw it away. Get you new element, attach the element ends to the connectors. Raise it up to the top of the oven and screw the screws back in to the holes in the top of the oven. You are finished. (The only reason this took me 30 minutes is because I am an old 79 year old granny and can't bend so well, or see so well. I had to use a little acrylic paint on my finger tips to mark the screw holes, it was taking too long to find them the old way, by feel.) GG