66517482N710 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Watched YouTube first of course. Pulled off the old gasket, found the center of the new gasket and started installing the gasket from the very top and all the way down the sides. I made sure it was in tightly and smooth. No more leak, should have listened to my wife sooner!

I just snapped the old one off and snapped the new one on..

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

Very simple to repair The front track stops just slide into place, easy. When I looked for these parts this place was the least expensive and the quickest delivery I have ever had. Quick, efficient and friendly online staffing. Thank you, Deb

As stated above the repair did not go well because the gasket was too wide and the door would close. Suggest you talk with Whirlpool about the part they sold you for my model of dishwasher.

New one snapped right into place.

I'm the maintenance supervisor at an apartment complex. While installing a new dishwasher for a tenant, I inadvertently cross-threaded the swivel connector to the fill valve. The valve was ruined and couldn't be repaired. I ordered a new valve (it was an OEM) and installed it. Simple switch out, plus the video from Parts Select showed I had done it right.

Well, it’s very easy to repair. But, what I like if ur Company is, the availability, of the parts.
Thanks you.

I followed installation instructions from this site and all went well.

Husband is wonderful, tipped dishwasher over on back, disconnected hoses, and drain motor (replaced that a couple years ago), popped out old part, popped in new part. Had me help him keep door open when working from the inside, and flip a plastic holder piece into place on outside. 15 minutes later, I had a dishwasher that worked like new again.

Tipped over washer, removed attachment bolts, installed new pump by clamping water hoses. Be sure to use proper crimping pliers, not the generic slip joint pliers. Replacement pump included required new clamps.

I checked the manual to determine the code meaning for 7 blinks, it was heating issue. I ordered the part from Partselect.com. When the part came in, I googled the internet for "How to replace a dishwasher heating element". There were several options, I chose one that was a video showing a handyman go through each step. I followed the steps, with no problems, and WA-LA! Felt good (as the wife of the house) to do it myself!

Pulled out old gasket, pressed in new starting middle top. No more leak.

Changed the seal first, very easy, no tools needed either. Helped a little, but still leaking a lot. Changed the lower spray arm and that did it. The video I watched before changing the seal helped a lot, definitely do that first.

Remove and replace by hand, no tools required