66517159K216 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Unscrewed bottom panel of the dishwasher and simply replaced the bad control switch with the new one.

I pulled the dishwasher out from the countertop rolled it to the side removed old clamps and hose installed new hose in kind used different hose clamps than provided turned up right pushed back in ran a cycle while looking underneath with a flashlight and saw no leaks and dishwasher has been back in use for a week now.Chris

Replaced heating element and high limit thermostat. Was suppose to fix the problem but did not. Replaced the control board and works now. All of these are easy to replace.

I loooked up the main problems associated with that model which is provided on the website and ended up ordering a heating element and a thermostat. I replaced both parts it took me about 30 minutes. The dishwasher is working again and my wife is very happy. Thanks guys!!!

no instructions came unfortunately, but it wasn't too difficult reverse engineering. took the upper rack out, disassembled it and put the new rack together using the old screws (since there were no screws either with the replacement rack). There are some extra parts I don't know quite what to do with - some type of additional separators, but the rack works fine without them.

Replaced the faucet adapter, works fine

Removed unit from counter. Replaced element.

I bought the portable dishwasher on Craigslist, and it didn't have the connector that goes on the kitchen faucet. Ordered it here, got it in a few days, and didn't need any tools - just had to screw it on. Good as gold!

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

it was just a matter of snapping the new assembly in place.

put new one in

The fault code suggests a problem with the washer's ability to maintain water temp. This could be caused by a failure of the tempurature sensor module, safety over-temp thermostat, or the heating element. First, I disconnected AC power at the Mains panel. I then verified that the heating element was indeed at fault by removing the dishwasher and disconnecting the leads to the heating element in the rear of the unit. I set a multi-meter to resistance and measured the element and found that it was electrically open, thus proving it was the part needing replacement. I then tested the replacement element and verified it showed low resistance. (Good). I then loosened the plastic retaining nuts with an adjustable wrench, removed the old element and replaced it with the new. The nuts were then re-installed and torqued with enough force to create a leak-tight seal as verified by pouring a gallon of water in the washer. I reconnected the leads and slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it to the counter with screws. I then turned power back on at the AC Mains panel.

I unsrew the faucet head, and attached th e adapter

replaced the faucet adapter I did not save when I change out the kitchen sink faucet set

twist filler hose assembly to the side and slide hose in. place clamps on hose and attach to water supply and valve.