66515979992 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I simply unscrewed the remainder of the wash arm retainer nut, removed the wash arm bearing ring and spray arm bearing ring and replaced them; No tools were required. At the same time I decided to replaced the upper wash arm with a kit from Part Select. This did require the use of a philips head screwdriver. The job was real easy and accomplished within 1 hour.

replaced spray arm, but this did not resolve the problem. The troubleshooting guid (inside kick panel) indicated the check valve may be stuck. We had quite a bit of lime build up, so I suspected the loose deposits may be stuck. I removed all of the deposits, disassembled the lower unit.
Removed lower spray arm, removed spry tube. The tube is two pieces. first the upper portion must be removed (two screws-place towel on base of tub to preven screws from falling into the chopper area), and then the lower portion simply rotates clockwise 1/8 of a turn. The attachment for lower spray arm has a small plastic bearing, careful not to drop it.
The dishwaser then had to be pulled out and turned on the side. I removed the entire lower unit by removing the white tabs (3). Careful, because the unit is now free to drop into the tub. Next I removed the pump. This is tricky as you have to remove the aluminimum bracket to get to the mountin bolt. The bolt turns out easily w/socket and extension. The pump motor is then rotated counter clockwise, and pulled from the pump. Takes a little force as the gasket makes for a tight fit.
I then removed the choper / pump unit from the basin. The build up behind the chopper screen was extensive, so I had to remove the screen and then the chopper cover. After cleaning, the check valve was unplugged and I reassembled the unit.

Dishwasher works great now.

Removed old phillips head screws /w washers from spray arm kit and mounting bracket. (You'll need to keep one screw/washer set.) Attached new mounting bracket and screwed securely. Attached spray arm with new screw/washer and I was good to go. Piece of cake!

just pay attention to how the old gasket was installed, then pay close attention to how you remove it from its groove. replace with flat sides and grooves just the same.. I actually left about on third of the old gasket in place until I seated the new gasket to make sure I was doing it correctly. visually divide the gasket groove into 2 parts with the dividing line at the top of the groove, place a piece of tape on the new gasket at its middle and begin there, first one side then the other,,, that way there is no stretching to complete the circuit. easy , I am a 62 year old grandmother of 7,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

At first I considered replacing the gasket on my own but was not sure If that was the problem. I had a service person come in (at great expense) to tell me it may or may not be the problem but he could order the gasket and replace it. I did it myself.

I removed the old gasket by hand, simply by pulling it out of its track. I sprayed clean water in the track to clean out old soap and debris. I soaked the new part in warm water for a few minutes to soften and lubricate it. I centered the gasket in position and began pushing it into the track with a one inch putty knife, being careful not to damage the rubber. There is a slot along the gasket that will accept a flat tool to push it in. At the corners, I had to use a screwdriver to work around the curves. In a few minutes the gasket was in and no more leaks. It couldn't be easier.

Removed the old mount from the upper rack. Removed the broken stem from the old mount that was attached to the arm. Attached the new mount to the spray arm. Attached the mount and arm to the rack.

I looked up the part on the Internet and checked locally. The part had to be ordered locallybso I placed my order on line. The part came quickly and the instructions were fairly clear. The parts just clipped together which made it vey easy to so and it is nicer than the rack we had before.

Turned off electricity. Removed the interior door cover. Removed door switch. Replaced switches & reversed process. By the way - I am a woman & diagnosised, ordered part & fixed it myself - I have no experience in this field. THANKS for all your information on your site.

Hey parts select, I'm Julia's husband and the repair was a simple remove and replace. Only one screw to hold the manifold together and the mounting hardware that we had to order separately was a snap in piece which was different form the original but went in just fine. You saved me from having to buy a new dishwasher which Julia was more than happy to go shopping for!! Thanks!!

I had replaced the control board a month or two earlier. Then smelled plastic burning. I noticed the Sta-con connecters in the molex plug had burned - that's what took out the control board. The fuse assembly came with new connectors - so you know this is a known problem with the machine. If you're handy you can buy the thermal fuse from Newark for $0.88 and replace it by soldering - but you need to replace the sta-cons. They corrode and the bad connection causes the heat making the thermal trip.

Removed 2 screws that held the old mount and washer arm in place, new mount was very easy to install, it snapped in, only one screw needed, remounted the washer arm and the job was done. I was really impressed with the ease of ordering and how quick it got here (3 days), also the scematics you have online are very helpful. I printed them out since I don't have the owners manual any longer, they're very helpful in matching up and ordering the right part which saves a lot of time, also I like the way you can just search by model number and appliance name to find the right parts, makes the entire process really easy. I know I will continue to shop here when the need arises. It really cuts down on expensive repair costs.

Took the bottom panel off and felt with fingers to replace spring with out pulling dishwasher out from enclosure.
Fairly simple

removed two hose clamps and old hose. slid new hose on existing fittings on dishwasher drain and disposal and tightened hose clamps. Turned it on for test run.

I unscrewed the wash arm tube from the agitator, and then unhooked the plastice holders that held the arm tube, pulling those parts out of the dishwasher. I took the new (one piece!) wash arm tube in hand and then realized that I would have to cut the plastic holder in half because there was no way to get the new (1 piece) arm tube through the plastic holder. I cut the plastic holder in half, fit it around the arm tube, and super glued the holder back together, allowing it to dry for several hours just to be safe. After that, I simply screwed the entire thing back on, and we were good to go. It could not have been easier, except for the unexpectedness of have to cut the plastic holder. Saved us probably at least $100 worth of service call and parts.

1) Removed the two panels below the door.
2) Unscrewed the two screws holding the dishwasher to the upper cabinet facing.
3) Pulled dishwasher out 6-8 inches to gain access to springs located on the side.
4) Removed the broken spring.
5) Attached the new spring.
6) Openned and closed the door to make sure spring was tight enough.
7) Pushed dishwasher back in.
8) Rescrewed cabinet facing screws
9) Rescrewed floor panels.

Only problem was with ordering ... PartSelect part number is different than the FSP-Whirlpool part number. PartSelect should provide a cross-reference table if there is a difference between OEM number and PartSelect number.