6651574991 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the existing dispenser door, took off old spring. Slid new springs on pin, got it situated between the correct parts of the door. Popped it back on the pin inserts. Twisted spring into springing action position, voila. It was repaired. No repairmen. No additional costs, fees, nor extra time waiting on repairmen.

replaced the two water defiector's, I had changed the door seal and should have changed the defiectors at the same time. Save yourself some time and ordor both parts. This is a easy fix, anyone can do.

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

The old gasket came out easily, but had calcium deposits in area. I cleaned the area with vinegar and water and waited until it was completely dry. The new gasket went in very easily and looked great. I started the dishwasher and alas, it still leaks, so the problem was apparently not with the gasket, but some other area. But the gasket is nice and new. Any suggestions on next step0 in troubleshooting?

first i picked out the old seal, use a screwdriver to get it started. Then I pushed the new one in after cleaning the seal channel. I fixed it during a commercial while watching my favorite tv show.

Searched various how to fix videos on your web site and YouTube.. Photographed old unit installation and wiring with my phone. Then labeled wires. I removed old latch and bolt with microswitches. Checked switches with ohmmeter which seemed to work well. Order new bolt and latch from this site . On arrival of new parts, assembled new unit using old one as model. Removed micro switches from old unit and installed them on new one. Confirmed switch function with ohmmeter. Installed replacement latch/ bolt. Closed circuit breaker at box and confirmed that door latch worked and dishwasher came on.

Simply removed deflectors and gasket, replaced all , took all of 5 mins. workes great now.

i took off the kick plate and found the water valve. its the piece that water comes to from under the sink to connect to the dishwaser. it has a plug with 2 wires. i turned off the water supply, disconnected the wires(probably should have flipped the breaker but didnt) took out the 5/16 mounting screws, had to use a little end wrench on 1 because it was behind the water line and a nut driver on the other. i put some thread gook on the connection and put the new one in the way it was and it works great. i am writing this because thats where i got the info to diagnose in the first place and saved me $$$!

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

The easiest way to change this out is to remove the access panel(like the one you purchased) and the metal brace that supports it to the bottom metal access panel. To do this, REMOVE the screws in between the door and access panel. Step 2: LOOSEN screws that connect the metal braces together. You do not need to remove them completely as the middle brace slides up. You should now have the panel and brace together in your hands. Step 3: Using a flat screw driver pry (and I mean pry!) the retainers out of the catch. At this point breaking the old plastic is a better option than bending the metal! Once removed, your ready to swap out the front cover of the panels and put'er back!! Good Luck!

Turned off electricity. Removed the interior door cover. Removed door switch. Replaced switches & reversed process. By the way - I am a woman & diagnosised, ordered part & fixed it myself - I have no experience in this field. THANKS for all your information on your site.

All I had to do was remove old door panel and retainer and I replaced with the new.
PartSelect were great. I highly recommend you guys.

I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the
Upper Wash Arm Support Clip from the broken support arm. Very quick re-assemble with the new part and I was able to re-use the support clip. The upper wash sprayer unit with its new support arm easily clipped in place on the upper rack.

remove star screws holding inside door panel. remove plastic cover that protects latch assembly. hook one end of spring on stationary pin on inside of slider bar. Hook other end of spring on pin on slider bar. replace cover and door panel.

Pulled off the bottom trim, slid the old panel off and put the new panel on. Then popped back on the bottom trim.