66515629000 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Open the dishwasher door and remove the lower dish rack.
The spray arm nut had broken off and the spray arm was wobbly.
Removed the spray arm. The threads of the nut had broken off inside the arm. I used three 1/4 inch bolts and inserted them together inside the threaded part of nut and turned counterclockwise. The threaded sec ... Read more tion came out.
Once the new nut arrived, I replaced the spray arm in the dishwasher and screwed the new nut clockwise in the center of the arm. That's it!

The 1/4 inch impeller bolt to shaft would not budge with a nut driver so I had to use a ratchet to loosen it. I could not hold the drain impeller with an adjustable wrench so I had to use a vice-grip. This still did not loosen it so I used an oscillating power saw to cut away at the bottom of the drain impeller being careful to only cut s ... Read more o deep, I didn't want to cut into the motor shaft. Once I had cut some grooves into the drain impeller, I could break it into pieces and remove it. Upon reassembly I tightened the 1/4 inch bolt with the ratchet.

I guess some food got caught in the water level sense float and caused it to mal function.
In the diagnosis process, I removed the arm to clean out any debree in the strainer ( found broken glass). I also found that the two rings mentioned above were worn. I replaced them and all is well.
Thank you for fast response with the re ... Read more placement parts.

Followed instructions as the videos on this page show.

Pulled dishwasher out from counter. Took cover off and replaced door springs.

This spinner is attached to a plastic module PN WP3379369 which is held in place by two screws to the top of the dishwasher. I was able to temporarily reattach the spinner by using a hot soldering iron to melt the nylon axle that goes through the spinner. By using a very small metal washer placed on top of the spinner I was able to melt e ... Read more nough off the end of the nylon axle so as to keep the spinner in place and still be able to rotate. By far the most difficult part of this repair is removing the two stops that prevent the upper washer rack being removed from the machine. Doing so requires using a pair of long nosed pliers and taking note of what needs to be squeezed. Even if installing a new part the upper rack needs to be removed in order to get access to this central part.

Simple easy twist on and off replacement.

Removed spray bar by removing the plastic finger thumb screw and replace as shown by you web page. Very simple.

I poked the old gasket with a fork tine so I could get a grip on the old gasket as I didn't have pliars, pulled it out in less than 4 seconds, folded the new gasket in half and started center top of the slot the old gasket was in and pushed the new gasket in on each side from the top to the bottom. Very easy. I'd say it took me longer t ... Read more o open the package with my teeth than in doing all of the above.

used a screw driver, removed 2 screws, removed broken piece, screwed in new part ....all done :)
took less than 15 minutes to do*

i just wanted to let everyone know..I ordered the part on a monday and received it on wednesday I was amazed...the part fit perfectly ...and was very easy to install myself....ty so much ...

It was very simple, the repair took less than 5 minutes start to finish. I removed the top dish rack, took out two screws and the broken part slipped right off the water feed tube. I slipped the new upper wash assembly on the end of the tube and replaced one screw. My dishwasher is an older model and the new part only has a hole for one s ... Read more crew but I cannot tell any difference in stability or performance. I put the top rack back on and the dishwasher is as good as before.

First I removed the nut holding down the lower washarm in place. I then lifted up the lower washarm where it's held in place by the nut. I replaced the two new parts: The lower sprayarm seal that seats underneath the lower washarm and the washarm bearing ring that seats on the top of the lower washarm just underneath the nut. A schematic ... Read more parts list diagram can be downloaded on the KitchenAid website. The wobbling motion of the lower washarm still seems to have the same amount of play as it had before I replaced the two parts. The lower washarm itself is in fine shape including the nut. I even attempted several other different ways to install the seal and bearing ring, yet the washarm still wobbles when I manually spin it. I called KitchenAid to find out if wobbling of the lower washarm was normal. Unfortunately, the person I spoke to didn't seem to me to knowledgable enough in this area.

just put the pieces where they belonged and tighten the screws. it longer to figure out how it was supposed to fit than the actual fixing.

I ordered the parts from parts select and was pleasantly suprised at the diagnostic diagrams, the home install video, and the quality and pricing of the parts. I had ordered just the top bearing a few years ago and did not realized the bottom seal was bad also. I found the seal pushed down around the pump housing which caused excessive ... Read more ware on the pump housing top and the top of the wash arm because the gap in the lower seal expanded over 1/4 inch causing the wear on the top of the wash are. This job is normally very easy. Unscrew the thumb screw on top, remove old bearing, pull off the wash arm, remove old seal. Then just put new seal on top of pump (check for any burrs and remove with a fine grit emory sand paper) put on the wash arm, insert top bearing and tighten finger nut tight. I had excessive wear (due to age of unit and lower seal not in proper position), so I had to construct a spacer to take up some of the slack. I could not find a nylon washer(and you need nylon) in the stores ready made and did not want rubber or metal washers due to the adverse effects these would have on the new bearing. I improvised. I purchased a pack of 10 nylon wall anchor washers from Menards (after they said no nylon washers were available:) I used 2 inch O.D. washers with 1/4 inch I.D. which was a perfect center hole and used a drill to enlarge center from 1/4 inch to 1 inch I.D. (to fit around the finger nut screw stem), and removed all burrs. Unscrewed top finger nut and placed under nut on top of seal and the 1/8 inch width took up the slack. Problem solved.

I followed the illustrative that accompanied the part and bingo, it was done. The instructional video was perfect....