66514509N020 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I had to pull the appliance out from under the cupboard, remove the bottom dish rack, go to the back of the dishwasher and remove the two plastic nuts and the two wires from the heater, then remove the heating element from the inside of the appliance and reverse the order. The dishwasher works fine now.

I simply disconnected the power line to the dishwasher and pulled it out enough to install the mounting brackets. The installation manual that came with the dishwasher described how to install the brackets and I simply followed directions.

My dish washer is a under the counter type.On mine there are two screws that screw into the bottom of the counter frame,these are located inside when you open up the door, they will be right on the inside and to the very front of the upper part of the door opening. Remove both screws. Now,be slow and start to pull the unit out from under the counter. Make sure you don't scrastch your floor,you may use a towel.If your dish washer's discharge hose is conected under the sink, go ahead and remove it. If your unit can be unpluged, unplug it. If not throw the breaker.Try to turn your unit on' if it does you still have power still on. Try again.With the unit pulled out so you can see the back, lay on your side and look for to long looking plastic nuts with a wire coming out of them. These nuts are holding your eleament in place.Unscrew both nuts and let them slide down the wires. Pull both of the wires off the eleament.now reach inside and remove the old eleament.Put new eleamen in place, reconect wires and tighten the nuts,caustion not to tighten nuts to tight.Ok hook the hose and eleectric back up,push the unit under the cabanet, and install the two screws.Really hopes this helps.

Removed plastic end caps from dish rack rail and slid rack off front of rail. Removed rear broken wheel and mount assemble that rail runs on. I believe this took a 3/16" socket which most people would not have and would prevent them from removing this part. With the right tool it was easy, without the tool it would be impossible. Buying tool at local hardware store would be much cheaper than calling repair man. After rear wheel mount assembly was removed, I slid rail forward so I could easily remove the rear rail end cap. I then mounted new wheel mount assemble using original screws and then slid rail through both wheel assemblies and snapped rail rear end cap back into rail. I then slid the upper dish rack on to the rails on both side, slid the wrack back and then snapped the end caps back into the rails fronts on bothe sides. The job was done and the dishwasher was ready for service.

Disconnected the power. Removed the dishwasher mount screws from under the counter. Slid the Dishwasher out. Removed the two wires. Loosened and removed the two heater support nuts. Removed the heater element from inside the dishwasher. Placed the new heater element inside. Tightened the nuts. Attached the wires. Pushed the dishwasher back in place. Replaced the under-counter support screws. Reset the diagnostics message on the dishwasher front panel (This may not be necessary for some) - (Press HI TEMP > AIR DRY > HI TEMP > AIR DRY). All works great. Thank you PartSelect.com for fast shipping and great pricing.

As directed online

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

it was just a matter of snapping the new assembly in place.

put new one in

I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..

Installed brackets

We had to pull the dishwasher out the get the heating element brackets loose underneath. We had to put the new heating element in and then we had to figure out which code to program in to make it reset. the last one listed on the installation instructions was the one that worked. I think it was heated dry, normal, heated dry. It would be very helpful if the reset instructions were put in the manual by whirlpool. I am very pleased with my part that I ordered from PartSelect. It came within 2 days of placing the order.

Remove blown high limit therm.and replace with the new high limit

Googled the problem. Found a really good video about how to fix it. Ordered the part from PartSelect and it came in a couple of days. Son and I fixed it and had it up and going in a little more than an hour. The biggest problem was getting it disconnected from the water, drain and power and then hooking it back up. Old fat guys don't do well lying on the floor with their head under the sink - was why I needed son. Works now just like brand new. I highly recommend PartSelect! Don't know what it would have costs to get a repairman to do it but figured our labor saved us a couple hundred $. Yea!