66513679K601 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions
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dishwasher not draining after wash cycle
Caviat: The actual repair is less than 15 minutes, but I spent a lot of time playing with it before I figured out it was that easy and fast. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from the counter to do this. And it will probably help to look at the new part closely so you can understand where the retainer clip is to press it and release the old pump.
First remove the water from the dishwasher pan that would not drain with a wet/dry vac. Otherwise the water will all drain on the floor when you remove the pump. Then remove the two screws on the kickplate on the front of the unit below the door. Remove the kickplate/maintainence access cover. The drain pump is on the right about 8 inches in. Using two hands you grasp the drain pump with your right hand and use the left hand to push the retaining clip down. Then the drain pump will rotate 1/4 turn counterclockwise and can be removed without pulling the dishwasher out. There is likely to be some water leak out that was traped in the pump housing that you can not reach with the vac. Disconnect the wire. Connect the wire to the new pump, put it in place and 1/4 turn clockwise to install it. Replace the kickplate and you're done.
First remove the water from the dishwasher pan that would not drain with a wet/dry vac. Otherwise the water will all drain on the floor when you remove the pump. Then remove the two screws on the kickplate on the front of the unit below the door. Remove the kickplate/maintainence access cover. The drain pump is on the right about 8 inches in. Using two hands you grasp the drain pump with your right hand and use the left hand to push the retaining clip down. Then the drain pump will rotate 1/4 turn counterclockwise and can be removed without pulling the dishwasher out. There is likely to be some water leak out that was traped in the pump housing that you can not reach with the vac. Disconnect the wire. Connect the wire to the new pump, put it in place and 1/4 turn clockwise to install it. Replace the kickplate and you're done.
Parts Used:
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Andrew from Alexandria, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Loud grinding noise from water pump
Rather than remove the pump assembly - as an earlier post had done - I pulled the entire dishwasher out and laid it down on the floor. This allowed easy, direct access to the motor (that was the hard, messy part). From this point it was easy. Unplug the wiring, remove the retaining bolt, rotate the motor off the mounting brackets and pull it out. Then put the new one in. That was the easy part (about 15 minutes). The entire job took 2-and-a-half hours, most of which was taken in disconnecting, cleaning up and reconnecting the dishwasher. It's much quieter now.
Parts Used:
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Steve from Inver Grove Heights, MN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
219 of 245 people
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Heater element broken.
Step 1: Remove the screws in the bottom of the countertop.
Step 2: Remove the screws holding the bottom kickplate.
Step 3: Loosen leveling legs.
Step 4: Pull dishwasher out of hole.
Step 5: Unlplug dishwasher.
Step 6: Disconnect wires from bottom of element in back.
Step 7: Remove plastic nuts holding element in place.
Step 8: Remove element.
Step 9: Reverse Steps 1-7.
Step 10: Drink beer.
Step 2: Remove the screws holding the bottom kickplate.
Step 3: Loosen leveling legs.
Step 4: Pull dishwasher out of hole.
Step 5: Unlplug dishwasher.
Step 6: Disconnect wires from bottom of element in back.
Step 7: Remove plastic nuts holding element in place.
Step 8: Remove element.
Step 9: Reverse Steps 1-7.
Step 10: Drink beer.
Parts Used:
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Dennis from Sedro Woolley, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
217 of 242 people
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would not turn on
I did a search on the website and read the instructions for trouble shooting. I took the inside door off by taking the screws out. I pulled the part and tested it and found it did not in fact have no ampage. I then ordered the part on line. It came in two days, I plugged it in, put the door back together and the total time was about 15-20 minutes. Easy, simple, great instructions and the entire thing only costed me the part itself. It's working great now! And I've never worked on appliances before.
Parts Used:
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Douglas from Dallas, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
197 of 226 people
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water leaking out of bottom of machine
removes the 1 screw that held the old one in and removed the water lines the supply line with a adjustable wrench and the internal line had a hose clamp on it then i just went in reverse...
Parts Used:
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MICHELLE from EDEN VALLEY, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
193 of 215 people
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Dishwasher motor - making a very loud grinding noise
I went on the internet and found a pdf file with the Kitchenaid dishwasher repair manual for my model. One of the hardest parts of the job was convincing myself that I could do the job. When you're young, you just go out and buy a new dishwasher and tell yourself, "it's only money, we'll make more." When you're over 50, you tell yourself, "I can fix this. It will mean I get to retire a week sooner if I don't spend another $700 for a new dishwasher."
In hindsight, I could have done this job (replace the motor) in about 30 minutes. 1) Turn off electrical breaker in basement. 2) slide out dishwasher. 3) disconnect water supply. 4) use old towels to soak up any water still in the tub. 5) turn dishwasher on it's side. 6) unhook the wire harness plug from the motor, squeeze with fingers to unhook. 7) unbolt motor, 1 bolt. 8) turn motor counterclockwise, 1/4 turn. 9) pull motor out from sump, requires some force. 10) install new motor, but use some rinse aid to lubricate the rubber seal on it. Instead I did things the hard way and took the whole darn machine apart!!! See my story below.
I was surprised at how simple the design was and how few parts there really were inside the dishwasher. I found the pdf repair manual very useful, and I also found some repair videos on line. One thing they may or may not tell you - clean the parts well and lubricate the gaskets with some 'rinse aid' liquid when you put the machine back together. Also, it might help you to take a few pictures with a digital camera before you take things apart - that might help you remember how things go back together. Take close up pictures and use a treble light to illuminate the area when you're taking a picture.
The new motor was the ticket to fixing the loud noise. I was worried because the part cost $150. Before I ordered a new motor, I hooked up the old motor to electricity on my work bench and was able to recreate the really loud noise - so I was pretty sure that the new motor would eliminate the problem. It was very easy to install the new motor, only one bolt holds it in place. I did need to disassemble several parts to get to it though. Have no fear. One thing I did was mark the electric leads that went to the small pump with red and black sharpie markers so I could easily see which terminals to plug them back onto.
After reassembling the whole dishwasher with a new motor and testing the dishwasher for leaks by pouring a couple pitchers of water into it - I put the beast back under the counter (hooking it back up to the water supply line, the drain pipe to the garbage disposal and finally the electric supply). Then I ran it and water gushed out the bottom.
This whole job should have been easy, but things never go easy for me. Maybe if I would have lubricated the old sump gasket with rinse aid it would have sealed properly when I reinstalled it. Maybe if I would have cleaned the old sump gasket and the bottom of the tub really thoroughly things would have sealed right. But I didn't - so it leaked. I went ahead and bought a new sump gasket ($30 and had a few more days of waiting and self-doubt and having the dishwasher broken down). One the gasket came, I went through the entire uninstall, disassembly, reassembly and reinstall process AGAIN!!! This time with the new clean sump gasket and thoroughly cleaned surfaces. I also lubricated the gasket with rinse aid before installation. NO LEAKS! Job finished. Lessons learned. Doing it the first time was pretty tough though. Good luck! Get a helper for moral support and picture taking!
In hindsight, I could have done this job (replace the motor) in about 30 minutes. 1) Turn off electrical breaker in basement. 2) slide out dishwasher. 3) disconnect water supply. 4) use old towels to soak up any water still in the tub. 5) turn dishwasher on it's side. 6) unhook the wire harness plug from the motor, squeeze with fingers to unhook. 7) unbolt motor, 1 bolt. 8) turn motor counterclockwise, 1/4 turn. 9) pull motor out from sump, requires some force. 10) install new motor, but use some rinse aid to lubricate the rubber seal on it. Instead I did things the hard way and took the whole darn machine apart!!! See my story below.
I was surprised at how simple the design was and how few parts there really were inside the dishwasher. I found the pdf repair manual very useful, and I also found some repair videos on line. One thing they may or may not tell you - clean the parts well and lubricate the gaskets with some 'rinse aid' liquid when you put the machine back together. Also, it might help you to take a few pictures with a digital camera before you take things apart - that might help you remember how things go back together. Take close up pictures and use a treble light to illuminate the area when you're taking a picture.
The new motor was the ticket to fixing the loud noise. I was worried because the part cost $150. Before I ordered a new motor, I hooked up the old motor to electricity on my work bench and was able to recreate the really loud noise - so I was pretty sure that the new motor would eliminate the problem. It was very easy to install the new motor, only one bolt holds it in place. I did need to disassemble several parts to get to it though. Have no fear. One thing I did was mark the electric leads that went to the small pump with red and black sharpie markers so I could easily see which terminals to plug them back onto.
After reassembling the whole dishwasher with a new motor and testing the dishwasher for leaks by pouring a couple pitchers of water into it - I put the beast back under the counter (hooking it back up to the water supply line, the drain pipe to the garbage disposal and finally the electric supply). Then I ran it and water gushed out the bottom.
This whole job should have been easy, but things never go easy for me. Maybe if I would have lubricated the old sump gasket with rinse aid it would have sealed properly when I reinstalled it. Maybe if I would have cleaned the old sump gasket and the bottom of the tub really thoroughly things would have sealed right. But I didn't - so it leaked. I went ahead and bought a new sump gasket ($30 and had a few more days of waiting and self-doubt and having the dishwasher broken down). One the gasket came, I went through the entire uninstall, disassembly, reassembly and reinstall process AGAIN!!! This time with the new clean sump gasket and thoroughly cleaned surfaces. I also lubricated the gasket with rinse aid before installation. NO LEAKS! Job finished. Lessons learned. Doing it the first time was pretty tough though. Good luck! Get a helper for moral support and picture taking!
Parts Used:
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Michael from St. Louis, MO
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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The door gasket stuck to the door a pulled out of place after every use
Worked the new gasket into the groove with a smooth screwdriver and my fingers. No leaks and it stays in place. Parts Select had the right part and I got it fast
Parts Used:
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Penny from Manchester, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
156 of 186 people
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Wanted to replace white panel with stainless steel to match other appliances.
My husband removed the existing panel by removing the retaining screws. Installed the new panel and replaced the screws. Very pleased with the new look and how easy it was.
Parts Used:
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Sandra from McKinney, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
134 of 143 people
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dispenser didn't stay closed
Ordered new part and installed it. I found a repair manual online and the replacement was pretty easy. I removed 8 screws that held the outer door and the dispenser was sitting there looking at me. I disconnected the solenoid, pried apart two clips and the old dispenser came right out. Reversed the process to install the new one.
Parts Used:
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Burt from Richardson, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
129 of 139 people
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Water leaking from front right corner (door) while washer running
The hardest part of this was figuring out the cause of the leak. It only leaked while the washer was running (arms spinning). I thought it might be the air intake seal at the lower part of the door-but that did not look damaged.
I cleaned off the door gasket really good and that slowed the leak - so I figured the gasket was the problem (plus changing the gasket is cheap and it was old anyway).
I pulled the old gasket off (no tools required).
I cleaned the track/slot that the gasket goes into, and the area around it from all the caked-on soap and gunk.
Cleaned off the door edge that seals with the gasket too.
I took the new gasket and folded it in half to find the middle, then started with the middle, putting it into the track (used the center door latch on the frame to know the middle on the washer).
I worked the gasket into the slot just with my fingers. I found that if I pinched the part that goes into the slot with my thumb/finger that helped get it deep into the slot without tools.
I worked around one side, slowly and carefully pushing it into the slot. Did the other side the same way - starting from the middle and working down to the end at the bottom of the washer. Checked the gasket to make sure it was all set in well.
There is an inch or so of the gasket left over at the bottom - I just bent that around the bend so it was not in the way.
I cleaned off the door gasket really good and that slowed the leak - so I figured the gasket was the problem (plus changing the gasket is cheap and it was old anyway).
I pulled the old gasket off (no tools required).
I cleaned the track/slot that the gasket goes into, and the area around it from all the caked-on soap and gunk.
Cleaned off the door edge that seals with the gasket too.
I took the new gasket and folded it in half to find the middle, then started with the middle, putting it into the track (used the center door latch on the frame to know the middle on the washer).
I worked the gasket into the slot just with my fingers. I found that if I pinched the part that goes into the slot with my thumb/finger that helped get it deep into the slot without tools.
I worked around one side, slowly and carefully pushing it into the slot. Did the other side the same way - starting from the middle and working down to the end at the bottom of the washer. Checked the gasket to make sure it was all set in well.
There is an inch or so of the gasket left over at the bottom - I just bent that around the bend so it was not in the way.
Parts Used:
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Clifford from Centennial, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
93 of 96 people
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spinner kept falling off
i removed the top screw for the water input to the spinner, which gave me enough room to replace the worn nipple pin that the spinner snaps on to. then snapped the new spinner in place. and then screwed everything back into place.
Parts Used:
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paul from erie, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
95 of 110 people
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Unit Wouldn't Work. "Clean" Light Blinking
The unit had power, but the controls would not work. The "clean" light was blinking. I first replaced the control unit, no help. I then used the "just ask" and was told the problem was the heating element and/or the hi-temp thermostat. I replaced both those and used the re-set code pushing the "hi-temp/air dry, hi-temp/air dry" buttons. That did it. Easy parts to locate and replace. It took longer pulling the unit out and putting it back than it did to replace the parts.
Parts Used:
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PAUL from ESTES PARK, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
106 of 147 people
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Lights flashing on the selections and nothing but the cancel button working
Take the 6 torx screws loose and pull down the face. Pop out the bi-metal fuse that is in the current board. Unhook the wires attached. Pop out the old board. Attach the wires to new board. Put the bi-metal fuse back in the board. Re-attach the face on the dishwasher. Be sure to unplug from the outlet before starting. When finished plug dishwasher back in. This fixed my problem.
Parts Used:
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Jessica from Clintwood, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
86 of 106 people
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Cap came off and melted
Opened door and installed cap. Not much effort. But really got good service from Parts Select. Received order much faster than I had expected.
Parts Used:
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James from Mesquite, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
76 of 76 people
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Not cleaning top tier,all dishes not getting clean
Disassembled inside bottom section of dishwasher found broken chopper part,removed and replaced with new part,only hard part was holding spring compressed when putting in new part,needed needlenose and thin screwdriver.Thank You for your great website and help
Parts Used:
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Steve from Killeen, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
77 of 87 people
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