66513242K901 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed back of door to access the screws holding on the air inlet. The top of the door with the controls does not need to be removed, I found out--only the bottom part. Accessing the 5 screws was difficult as there was no space to get the socket onto the screws at a 90 degree angle. Also, there are two plastic shields that fall off when you remove the inlet that need to be replaced, with difficulty because of the accessibility to the area.

PartSelect site is excellent and finding the correct part was relatively simple, although I was not absolutely sure I ordered the right part until it arrived--only one day after ordering, although I paid for the least S&H option.

Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

Eay repair. Replacement tube was one piece and only required removing one phillip's head screw to replace

I am a 61 year old woman and it took me a total of 2 min. max. Popped it into place and pushed in button that holds it..Taa Daa...perfect!

Pulled front panel and replaced door switch. Extremely easy but did not fix the problem.

I removed the old seal and carefully cleaned the track into which the seal was fixed. No tools other than some ordinary cleaning liquid, cloth and small wooden piece to swab out the track. Easy and quick. As a note here, I first used the incorrect schematic for the unit and ordered the wrong seal. However after receiving the wrong part, I made the correction and reordered. I did this over the phone as I needed instructions to return the part. The person taking my order and answering my questions was very helpful and I want to take this opportunity to thank her.

I opened yutube and noted the tips on how to fix specific problems with my dishwasher. That "steve" guy was very helpful. I tested the old bi-metal fuse with no flow and ordered a new replacement through partselect. The part arrived in one day and was fitted quickly. I used the teat meter to confirm that the fuse was ok before I installed it. The only problem that I had was identifying the part and number from a diagram which I did not have.

easy as long as you have the right tool to take the panel off, maybe they could include one for people who don't have a good selection of tools. Thankfully we did.

I took the unit apart to find out what was making the loud noise and found the seal on the main pump had been leaking ito the bearing on the motor.

Just removed the old seal and followed the instructions that came with the new one. Since the old one didn't have any adhesive on it ,I didn't use the adhesice on the new one. Problem solved!

Removed required hardware and dishwasher from undercounter mount. Turned dishwasher on its front and removed the old motor. Installed the new motor and tested for function. Installed once test was successful.