66513033K115 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed old hose and replaced it with a new one and reinstalled the dishwasher.

The repair was very easy - watched two videos on Youtube on how to replace the soap dispenser. The video convinced me I could do the repair myself so I ordered the replacement part. Before I started the repair, I realized none of my screw bits would fit the screws on the door of the dishwasher. Went to Lowes and bought a Kobalt Double Drive screwdriver with a set of screw bits that appeared to include at least one of them that would fit the screws. I needed a T15 bit. Once the door was apart, I unfortunately realized that none of my sockets would fit the screws that were holding the dispenser in place. Had to run back out to Lowes and bought a Kobalt Micro Driver and Nutsetter Set which as it turned out also included a T15 bit so I bought more tools than I needed. Turned out I needed a 3/16 for the screws on the dispenser. If I would have had the right tools, the job would have taken less than a half hour.

To adequately access the drain motor pulling the dishwasher out was required which was the hardest part. Once the dishwasher was out and laid on the back, replacing the motor took about one minute(Very easy, one clip and a small electrical plug)

Solution was very simple with the side mounting bracket kit, the only problem was somehow one of the brackets was damaged out of the box . There's a slight off-set on the bracket to allow it to fit properly next to the dishwasher but this one had been flatten out. Had to have happened before going into the shipping box because they were very well protected with bubblewrap. Also, brackets are fairly heavy gage metal so it would have taken some amount of force to do this. Fortunately I was was able to bend it back into a useable shape. It wasn't perfect to look at but because it's mounted behind the side of the dishwasher it didn't matter as long as it worked.

Installed the rubber grommet and the door was fixed.Wish the product was made to lasts,second time in three years the part had to be replaced.

I removed front bottom cover on dishwasher. The drain pump is on right front side. Very easy to remove and to install a new pump.

I had to pull the appliance out from under the cupboard, remove the bottom dish rack, go to the back of the dishwasher and remove the two plastic nuts and the two wires from the heater, then remove the heating element from the inside of the appliance and reverse the order. The dishwasher works fine now.

I simply disconnected the power line to the dishwasher and pulled it out enough to install the mounting brackets. The installation manual that came with the dishwasher described how to install the brackets and I simply followed directions.

star bit to take inside door screws out (2 long screws in the top corners) - wife held door to the side - unscrewed dispenser, unplug dispenser power supply - pull out old dispenser - install the new dispenser (there is a gasket flap that goes over the dispenser when you put the new one in place before the screws go in) - it is easier if two people hold the door panel when sliding it over the stops to align the screw holes - very simple.

1. Turn off the electrical switch that powers the dishwasher. 2. Open the door of the dishwasher and find the two phillips head screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the kitchen counter. 3. Remove the screws. 4. Gently move the machine side-by-side a bit while pulling it out onto the kitchen tile (be careful, the water-supply hose, electric cord, and dishwasher drain hose may not be long enough to allow you to pull it out very far - don't break or kink the hoses). 5. Remove (pull off) the black plastic fastener located on the bottom/rear of each side of the dishwasher. 6. Remove the old surround. 7. Lay the new wrap in place and secure with the two plastic fasteners. 8. Push back into place, secure the two screws, check your hoses.

There was a design flaw, and I hesitated buying the wheels again. Pleasantly surprised there was a new design that won't pop off. Simply snap off the old wheel assembly and snap on the new one. Be sure to get the top flanges around a horizontal wrong before snapping the lower piece into position. (it's obvious)

My dish washer is a under the counter type.On mine there are two screws that screw into the bottom of the counter frame,these are located inside when you open up the door, they will be right on the inside and to the very front of the upper part of the door opening. Remove both screws. Now,be slow and start to pull the unit out from under the counter. Make sure you don't scrastch your floor,you may use a towel.If your dish washer's discharge hose is conected under the sink, go ahead and remove it. If your unit can be unpluged, unplug it. If not throw the breaker.Try to turn your unit on' if it does you still have power still on. Try again.With the unit pulled out so you can see the back, lay on your side and look for to long looking plastic nuts with a wire coming out of them. These nuts are holding your eleament in place.Unscrew both nuts and let them slide down the wires. Pull both of the wires off the eleament.now reach inside and remove the old eleament.Put new eleamen in place, reconect wires and tighten the nuts,caustion not to tighten nuts to tight.Ok hook the hose and eleectric back up,push the unit under the cabanet, and install the two screws.Really hopes this helps.

This was one of the easiest repair jobs I've done. The only reason it took over 15 minutes was because when I put the front cover back on I did not line up one side properly and had to take it off again. No big deal. This replacement part truly is just a plug and play replacement. Awesome!

Removed plastic end caps from dish rack rail and slid rack off front of rail. Removed rear broken wheel and mount assemble that rail runs on. I believe this took a 3/16" socket which most people would not have and would prevent them from removing this part. With the right tool it was easy, without the tool it would be impossible. Buying tool at local hardware store would be much cheaper than calling repair man. After rear wheel mount assembly was removed, I slid rail forward so I could easily remove the rear rail end cap. I then mounted new wheel mount assemble using original screws and then slid rail through both wheel assemblies and snapped rail rear end cap back into rail. I then slid the upper dish rack on to the rails on both side, slid the wrack back and then snapped the end caps back into the rails fronts on bothe sides. The job was done and the dishwasher was ready for service.

I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..