66512774K312 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Easily pulled old gasket from channel. Soaked new gasket in warm water. Cleaned debris from channel with wire brush and CLR. Starting at top-middle, gently pressed new gasket in place. Used a gentle push-pull technique on the corners. Used fingers to smooth gasket all around. Closed door and kept latched for 2 hours. Ran dishwaher to check for leaks.

Trial and error. The instructions from Whirlpool included with the part had minuscule pictures so it was hard to follow. The written instructions were good. But "a picture is worth a thousand words." Eventually it worked. The metal replacement part is much better the the plastic original. Not a good reflection on Whirlpool.

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.

OEM roller wheels were on plastic shaft which broke. Replacement was on stainless steel bracket with metal shaft, better quality. Don't think I will have to replace again.

First, I replaced the bottom door seal. You will need magnetic nut drivers because of the location of the 3/16 screws that hold the seal in place. you also need a 1/4 in nut driver to remove plastic cover that covers up the 5 3/16 screws. Last you need a small star driver to remove the door screws. Note 4 of the door screws, the 4 on top of the door are much longer than the side screws. With all this said, this seal was not my problem. I then replaced the large black rubber seal around the tub. Be sure if you do this you fold the seal in half and start in the middle of the top of the opening so you have the exact amount of seal left over on both sides. Also when you remove the old seal, clean the area it was removed from with a damp cloth. Turns out, That was not my problem either. So now I will move to the next step to see where the water is coming from but maybe this information will help someone with a simple door leak.

After unscrewing the dishwasher, I pulled out the washer, I saw that the springs were attached just by strings that were broken... I just used the strings from an old lanyard, retied everything, and did not need the springs! works well!

After shutting off electricity, lay dishwasher on it's side (use a towel to absorb any water) then just use nut driver to remove faulty valve.

Popped out old wheel housing. Popped in replacement with a little help from a flathead screwdriver. Easy.

I carefully followed the video instructions step by step. They were detailed, clear, and pointed out how to avoid installation mistakes. WIthout the video I would have been tempted to just figure it out myself - ("Hey, I'm a handy guy. How hard could it be, right?"). With the video I sailed right through with no dumb errors. The new rack adjuster wheel set is much sturdier than the Whirlpool original. It made sense to get new rack stops at the same time. Thank you, PartSelect.

Unplug the dishwasher,take the screws out of the coutertop,then slide dishwasher out turn it on its side. Then take a torx screwdriver and remove 2 mounting screws. Unplug the wires going into the motor and replace the motor with the new one. But you need to replace the grommet the motor shaft slides up into or it will still leak.

The upper rack adjuster kit was replaced exactly as the video showed. I felt it was not very complicated and the new parts look more hefty then the original parts.

Front track stops was just a matter of snapping them into place.

I purchased this misguided by the official response to "Doug" on April 17, 2018, which at the time was labeled as "most helpful". This is NOT the little grommet in the center. This is a big grommet that goes no the supply pump. This is #14 in the diagram. (#15 is actually the clamp that holds it). If you are looking for the little grommet that goes on that stem on the central recirculation pump, that part is not available, it only comes fused on the sump, and for replacing the sump you have to disassemble the whole bottom part of the dishwasher, pumps, sensors, valves, hose...even this big grommet. A lot of work, and since you are at it, you might want to replace both grommets. If you need THIS big grommet (#14) only, then it is not so much work, just take out one clamp, one connected cable, and the grommet to replace. But check if your machine has reusable clamps, because if not, you might want to order a new clamp. Good luck!

Put thread tape on threads. Screwed water hose to part. Pushed hose onto part. Pushed electric clip to part. Screwed part onto washer. Done

The install video was invaluable, and made installation a breeze. Unfortunately it did not include instructions to remove the original adjuster — which was of a slightly different design as the replacement. I eventually got the old part off using a screw driver to pry the plastic snap connections apart.