5VGI6FARAF00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I unboxed the replacement gasket set and inspected them for damage. Then I opened the left refrigerator door and grabbed the right hand corner of the old gasket and removed it. I then aligned the new gasket with the door and using my fingers pushed the gasket into the gasket grove. I used my thumb to seat the gasket. I repeated the process for the right door. Total time was under 15 minutes.

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.

Replaced with new gasket

well, first, after calming down i removed the glass from my sink (this took a half hour). then i went to the computer and looked for jenn-air parts. the part-select site came up. the site was very easy to use and although i usually leave things like this for my husband to do i decided to order the part myself, which i did.
the trick was finding something on hand to cover the tops of the crispers which were both full of vegetables. i innovated and used a shallow broiler pan and its lid which covered 90% of both the crispers. the part came in five days unwrapping the part was easy, cleaned it with windex (no sink soaking this time) and inserted it on top of crispers............totally easy!!!!!

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

lift glass, slide new rail in replace glass. 2 min repair.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

It was just a simple swap out with the new bins.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

pop open, unscrew quarter turn, screw new one in quarter turn, pop shut. duh

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed