5ED2FHGXVA00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

looked up the model #, found your co. & ordered a new one Service was excellent, shipping reasonable; it was a pleasant surprise. I will tell my friends about your co.

Put new drawer in fridge.

To get the coupler off the motor shaft I took two adjustable wrenches and slit the old coupler where it was cracked.The threads on the motor shaft were stripped closest to the motor.I took two thin washers and put them on the motor shaft so the new coupler would not turn down to where the threads on the motor were sripped.Since the threads on the coupler are left hand they keep the coupler tight as the motor turns the dispenser auger to dispense the ice.I was a bit difficult to unplug the wiring harness but got it after we used a screwdriver to keep the tab bent down until the harness was unplugged.

First off, if you have the stainless steel panel inserts on your refrigerator you'll need to remove those to do this repair. I kept looking for the access holes on the underside of the dispenser panel that you're supposed to insert a screwdriver into to pry it off. It wasn't until I removed the freezer door handle, slid the lower stainless panel insert out, and removed the rail just beneath the dispenser that I could see and access these holes. I also removed the upper stainless panel and rail just above the dispenser to allow enough movement get the dispenser cover off and out. The rest of the repair is pretty straightforward. The old ice door was beaten up and not closing completely, this was letting warm air into the freezer which was melting and re-freezing. This kit fixed the problem.

Initially I removed the cover to the auger and auger drum. Then the split ring locking washer had to be removed. I used a needle-nosed pliers and small screw-driver to pry that off. The auger arm could then be removed, and the auger blades removed. This proved to be the part that required the most patience. The blades need to removed and returned in their exact pattern. Someone else suggested taking a digital picture of them before removing them; this is a good suggestion that I failed to do. Once the blades are returned, all the other parts can be replaced in reverse order. Put the screws back in, and you are finished.

First remove the ice container from the freezer
and dump all of the ice. Remove the four
screws holding the front ice container cover. Remove the control arm screw and bracket from the bottom of the ice container, remove crusher housing (screws and retainer clip). Remove nylon
bearing nut on front of auger shaft (left handed threads). Remove crusher blades and spacers (remember order of blades and spacers). Remove broken floating baffle. Replace baffle and reverse removal procedures.

The hardest part was getting the front cover plate off. I used two kitchen knifes one in each slot on the bottom of the plate and pried it off and unplug it. I removed one screw to release arm. I then used long nose pliers to remove the pin on door arm assemble. Then unplug door heater. New door has no heater. The heater had cooked the plastic arm, which caused the arm to fail. Then reassemble in reverse order.

Pulled out the old drawer and put in the new.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

I first removed the ice bin from freezer. There were four nut screws on back of ice bin cover that I removed with a screw driver, giving me access to the deflector. The deflector has two prongs that attach it securely to the ice bin, I used a phylips head screw driver to release the prongs from the deflector. I installed the new deflector by placing it through the bottom portion of deflector area, using the phyllips screw driver I engaged the prongs of the deflector into slots on ice bin. There was a hook on the back side of the deflector that went over a metal rod that controls the ice cube release. Then replace front cover of ice bin with the four nut screws and returned it to the ice maker location.

I emptied refrigerator contents and tilted the refrigerator to the right so as to access the metal panel upon which the evaporation tray was resting. The metal panel is on the left side underneath the refrigerator and the evaporation tray is resting on the panel. I removed 4 screws that were holding the metal panel, pressed down on the panel, slid out the old, cracked plastic evaporation tray, inserted the new plastic evaporation tray, raised the metal panel to its original position, replaced the 4 screws, being careful not to pinched the water line that feeds the ice-maker. VOILA! Un-tilt the frig and re-stock it. It took a day for the temperature to stabilize, due to tilting, I think. New tray $45.

I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.
Thanks

followed the instructions on the box

Be advised that to do this job, you have to take the ice tray and feeder assembly completely apart. The only tricky part is that the nut, part 31 in the drawing, that holds everything together is reverse threaded. Since it's plastic, you're afraid you'll break it. If you know it's reverse threaded to begin with you can go ahead and apply the required force to get it off.

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.