59676254702 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.

First I removed the six screws from the cover. I then disconnected the two wires and pulled the small motor out with its base and removed two screws that hold it in place. I then changed the old one for the new one and set it back in its place. I then set the cover back and turned it on. I was happy again.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

very quickly took old out and popped new one in place using a popsicle sttick to make sure new gasket was seated

No instructions came with the parts, however, on the website where we ordered the parts was a video that walked you through every step. We followed the video and had the repair done in no time.

Replaced the electronics board. Fairly easy job. Video helped enormously. Programing is awkward.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Repair was a piece of cake. My only wish would have been a little more informed on a few other parts I could have replaced as well. It obviously would have increased my cost, but would have simplified the install process, and still would have been cheaper then calling a service guide. I would recommend buying and installing the new gaskets when doing this. And possibly the steel support bar that goes threw the plastic shelf. Removing that bar was the most difficult task, difficult only that if you used to much force, SNAP!! and then your pissed! and have to start all over.

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

I looked up the refrigerator on the internet and found this website. I got the diagram of the parts of the icemaker and found that the valve must be defective because no water was coming up to the icemaker.
I ordered the part which came the next day. Took out the screws, conected the water line to the new part. moved the electrical connection to the new part and we had ice. Saved a lot of money that the plumber would have cost.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

I searched the internet for the correct part and reviewed the instructions on the internet. Upon ordering the correct part I was provided a link to a video that walked me through step by step. The very first thing I did was unplug the refrigerator.I then located the control board located in the housing in the ceiling of the refrigerator. Using a screwdriver I was able to carefully separate the housing from the refrigerator ceiling . Unplugged the housing and then had to separate the plastic housing to locate the control board. Ran into a little difficulty at first separating the plastic tabs but with a screwdriver carefully pried the tabs. Once completely open is where the control board was. More plastic tabs holding the control board in place. Carefully separated the board from the tabs. The were two plugs that needed to be separated from the board. Used a screwdriver to get the plugs separated.The new board you had to bend carefully at a joint so the board became two pieces. Snapped the boards in place. Plugged the board in two spots. Put the housing together and put the housing in place in the refrigerator. Plugged the refrigerator in. All lights came on and then had to program the board. The instructions were spit on. The code is located inside the fridge were the model tag is. Programmed correctly. Word of advice read the directions a few times you can't go wrong. So far it's day 7 after I installed the board and no ice building up. According to the internet the control board controls the defrost function on my model. Very happy. I'm still watching the freezer but I'm pretty sure I fixed my matter. Thanks for sending the right part and the video. Repair went well. Just take your time and go easy because everything involved is plastic. I didn't want to break any tabs I had to deal with.