59665939403 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

replaced inlet valve per insert with part, easy

Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money

Unscrewed the old handle, cleaned the area, and screwed on the new handle. Simple, and took just a couple of minutes. Our kind of repair!
The handle is now whiter than the rest of the fridge, but (1) were just happy to even find a replacement handle so we could switch it out and (2) no longer worried about it breaking and our having to purchase a new refrigerator just for that reason, when this one is still working just fine. Thank you, PartSelect! (We have referred friends to you :-)

Removed broken handle and replaced with new one by inserting 2 screws. Just took about 2 minutes and is a great improvement!

Take everything off the top self, lift the self install the new part ,put self back in place and then install the drawers again. Took minutes.

decided to take a chance and replace the ice maker,so far no water leaking.feels nice to know the problem is fixed.thanks for the video on how to replace it, thanks again very easy repair

Snapped in new part

Total time 10 minutes. 9 minutes to clear out the food and 1 minute to install the part. Installation was self evident and could have been done blindfolded. Part just snapped in.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

Bought a new shelf

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

It was exactly as everyone else described--remove old ice maker, unplug, plug in new ice maker, attach new ice maker. 3 screws, 1 plug. My plug was the one on the ice maker not on the refrigerator (ie I used the wiring/plug that was already in the freezer).

Unplugged refrigerator and turned off water supply. Loosened two top screws and removed bottom screw. Althought kit was supplied with multyple wiring harnesses the harness attached to unit was the correct harness for the model I was replacing. Removed and reused old shut off arm as replacement arms were shorter in reach then original. Also reused bottom unit support that was removed and replaced with one screw into unit and then into side wall of freezer. Over all time less then 15 minutes. As this was a side by side ref/freezer unit their us limited space to view support screws. I used a mechanics mirror to find upper screws. This visualization made the process go much faster. Reading the other repair stories also gave me a huge confidence boost and insite in what to expect.

Removed the screws and disconnected the electric. I put the proper electric harness on and went to fit the unit in but it didn't fit. Until I figured out that you have to use the clips from the old unit that hold the unit in place. The actually hang on them. Once I figured it out it was easy.