58715072201 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Took the roller out of the package, snapped it into place. Less than 15 seconds. Works good as new.

First I opened the door all the way. Second I reached down to the bottom gasket then grabed it on the right end of the seal that is on the right side of the door. Then I pulled the end outward from the bottom of the door toward the heater coil in the bottom of the washer. It came out real easy. You see it just snaps into a little plastic groove under the door. I then cleaned up the area for food and soap particules. I then placed the new gasket in place by lining up the notch toward the right end with the piece of plastic that encloses the right end of the plastic notch on the bottom right end of the door. Then push it in untill it stops going into the notch. It snaps in but does not make a snaping sound. It just won't go in no more.

I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.

It was amazing, the items were shipped within days of placing the order. They arrived ready for installation. My husband had the new racks in place in 10 minutes. He removed the wheels from the old racks and placed the wheel on the new racks which required no tools. Then we slid the new racks into place, a perfect fit!

First I removed and replaced the gasket around the tub. It didn't require any tools and took about 2 minutes to complete. I didn't really need to replace the gasket but it came with the latch kit so I went ahead and replaced it anyway. Than I removed only the top door panel (6 screws) and supported it while I removed the broken latch (2 Torx screws). I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the wires off the old latch (keeping track of where each wire came from) then plugged the wires onto the new latch and screwed it back to the door. Put the door panel back in place with the 6 screws I had removed earlier and I was done. it all took about 15 minutes and the wife is so glade she is not doing dishes by hand anymore that she left me alone for the rest of the night.

Received the part 3 working days after order. Part was exactly like the original.
Removed the door. Slipped off old gasket and replaced with new gasket. Replaced door and tried rinse cycle. Worked perfectly.

The tub perforations at the heater leaked and water dripped onto the fastening nuts and the electrical connections. I ordered a new heater element and it did not have the necessary nuts to fasten it to the tub. I had to go back and order them separately. The original nuts are very unique and cannot be substituted for.The manufacturer should send them with every heater element because this leaking problem is very prevalent on these machines.

With the door wide open and lower dishtray out, I pulled the old gasket out of its channel. I cleaned the channel with a rag and replaced it with the new gasket. It needed to be trimmed about an inch in order to get the door to close properly. Took me about 5 minutes. Then I removed the old bottom door gasket. Just grasped the plastic edge showing while the door is completely open. Pull outward with fingers moving toward the heating element. Cleaned this area also. Took the new gasket with notch on the right hand side of the dishwasher and pushed it into place. If you get down and look closely, you can see where the notch hooks up. The rest of the piece just slides in after that. Hasn't leaked since! No leaks AND no service call fee. Parts came super fast! So glad I found this website. I'm a housewife, you can do this!

Reading the instructions posted, I realized that I only needed to remove the two lower screws on the inside of the dishwasher door. The lower front panel then came off easily. I unplugged the power to the dishwasher. I then removed the six screws holding the dispenser in place, and when loose I unplugged the two wires (I used a flat blade screwdrive to pry them a bit then they slid off -- note the red one was inside, lighter one outside). I put the new part in, put in all but the left screw with the hook. I then plugged the wires in, and fastened the left screw with the hook positioned around the wires. I put the panel back on, fastenet the two screws that hold it in, and plugged the dishwasher back in. It's working beautifully. All in all it was about 20 minutes.

Per the recommendation from PartSelect.com, I purchased 2 new springs and 2 new clips - one set for each side. With the bottom cover plate removed below the door, I removed the remaining spring and clip and installed the 2 new springs and clips by hand. The door now opens with resistance and won't even stay completely opened unless the lower dishwasher tray is rolled out on it. it's like new.
This is the second repair to this dishwasher. Last year I replaced the door latch that had broken with a replacement purchased from partselect.com. That repair was also quite easy.
PartSelect's full part brochures by model made identifying the needed parts simple, and the replacement a breeze.
I even repaired my refrigerator ice maker a couple months ago after purchasing a new control module, and saving both a service fee and the probable full price for a new ice maker.
I've repaired my electric clothes dryer too, and hadn't even thought about all the repairs I'd done thanks to this website, until I told the story of my dishwasher.
I've probably saved $1000 already. Wow!
I love this site.

Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!

I pulled off the cover inside the sump area. Then pulled the washer out from the counter and turned it on it's side. I took the old pump out and crimped a new wire harness on. It was a simple repair for a DIYer.

Before pushing the dishwasher back, I tested the dishwasher with it pulled out from the counter. It was easy to see water was flowing forcefully through the upper tubing now. Success.

Troubleshooting this faulty pump was harder because it was functioning, but it did not have enough force to push the water up to the top rack. I convinced myself that the pump was the problem by plugging the lower rack with a cork. The spray was still too weak to rotate the upper spray arm. I also ruled out the timer with a stop watch. This unit alternates upper and lower racks by pausing either 0.6 seconds or 3 seconds. This controlls a ball that diverts water to the upper or lower rack.

Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

First I just rolled out the lower rack assembly, and rolled the new one in. Then I moved onto the upper rack. I started by sliding the off the rail cap lock at the end of the rack. The entire cap does not come off, just the bottom slotted piece. This is done by simply edging out the bottom of the cap, toward the front of the dishwasher, until the bottom slides out of the slot, and lifts out of the way. Then the upper rack was released to roll freely out of the support rail. The next step was to pry off the top of the water diverter. Next was to unscrew the wand assembly from the water diverter that is attached to the upper rack assembly. There are no water lines attached to this, it just directs the jetted water from the top of the dishwasher. Then simply pop the mount from the upper rack. And reassemble the way it came off. This was a simple fix to make the dishwasher like new inside again. The racks purchased from Parts Select fit perfectly with no modifications or trouble. This operation took less than ten minutes. Anyone should be able to handle this operation. If you are afraid to disassemble the upper rack, take a few digital pictures to refer to, and delete them later. This is a tip that has been priceless to me in the past on other projects. Thank you Parts Select.