58714134100 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Very, very easy. Pop off the old wheels and snap the new ones into place on the rack.

Manually took off melted parts and replaced them with the new ones.

After several years of use and cleaning the small "nubs" that held the locking peice on the assembly under the jet arm had worn off. This allowed the whole thing to spin and the dishes weren't getting clean. Finding the part on the site was easy, it arrived amazingly fast and all is up and working great. I have used Parts Select 2 or 3 times in the past and have always had the same great results. Saved me a bunch in repair bills. Thanks

My upper spray arm attaches to the upper dish rack. It comes in four parts: the spray arm, the bracket which attaches it to the rack, the water funnel, and a plastic nut that holds the pieces together. The nut was worn and wouldn't hold so I replaced that piece and it works great. It took less than one minute to fix.

First I removed two screws that held the door panel on. Then I pulled out the old gasket, inserted the new one, replaced the door and screws and it was done! We tested the dishwasher and no more leaks!

For some strange reason my new dishwasher was installed without a door gasket, which caused a very small water leak. The gasket I purchased was installed in less than 5 minutes and corrected the problem immediately - a very easy task and I am no handyman!

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

I removed the screws on the inside of the dishwasher door to remove the front facade to get access to the door latch assembly, I think about 6 screws. Then I unscrewed the two hex screws that mounted the latch assembly to the door. I then had to un-hook the electrical wires (4 plugs, 2 on a side) from the assembly. I attached those same plugs to the new door latch, and mounted the assembly back on with the two screws, and tested the door to see if it closed, latched, and if the dish washer would run (since I unhooked and rehooked up the electrical wires). Finally I screwed the front facade back on and was done. It took about 5 minutes. I did get a small shock when I was removing the electrical plugs from the old assembly from touching the metal dish washer door and one of the plugs at same time.

Both the door latch assembly and strike broke on the dishwasher. I was happy to find both parts available at PartSelect.com. Simply removed mounting screws so I could pull the dishwasher out, removed the old strike, disconnected the 4 wire attachments and removed the ddor latch assembly, and re-assembled with the new parts. Pretty easy job- the only unusual thing was that you need a torx screwdriver for the latch assembly.

After receiving my part in a timely manner, I removed the six screws holding the cover on the door. After making sure the appliance was unplugged, I removed the two star screws and removed the broken latch assembly. I disconnected the four electrical wires noting their placement. I connected the wires to the new latch assembly, screwed the assembly to the door, and replaced the cover on the door. That was one of the best quick-fix experiences I have ever had. Thanks PartSelect.com!!!!

I removed the screws from the inside of the door. There are also tiny screws you have to remove that holds the part onto the door. Then I was able to remove the part, unplug the power receptacles and install the new part. Very simple!!

I removed 6 screws to get to the door latch, then removed 2 screws to remove the broken latch assembly. Changed out 4 wires, reinstalled the 2 screws that attached the latch to the door,thenreinstall the 6 screws that assemble the door back together. Everything fit and works properly. Thanks guys, your service was great.

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!

I unclipped the plastic pieces at the front of the rack. This was very easy. Then I removed the old rack. I then removed the water sprayer from the old rack and placed it on the new rack. This was simple and I unscrewed the water sprayer by hand and snapped out. Putting it on the new assembly was very easy. Then I placed the new rack on the two stainless steel sliders and refastened the plastic clips at the ends. It was no problem.

Removed the bottom panel, and I had to disconnect the water supply, which did NOT use flexible tubing (much to my disappointment), removed the screws holding the diswasher in the cabinet. Slid it out, took the old springs off, put the new ones on.

It was pretty straightforward -- no big deal.