57751H2WW General Electric - Instructions

After confirming what I thought was the problem and reading other posts it was fairly easy to replace the belt. After taking the bottom cover loose to gain access to the large and small pulley I found out that the belt was very tight to get on as a previous customer had mentioned. I also used visegrips to hold the belt in place on the large pulley while guideing the belt on the small motor pulley with one hand and turning the drum pulley with the other hand. It helped that I had read the other post first. Next time will be a snap.

Removed bottom washer plate. Placed belt on small, grooved pulley. Started belt on larger pulley. Clamped lock pliers to larger pulley to prevent belt from slipping off. Turned belt onto larger pulley by turning and pressing the belt close to the smaller pulley. Adjusted belt and replaced bottom plate.

replaced Tub dampeners Straps.

Removed the screws for the control panel and replaced the load switch and valve body in about 20 minutes. Simple fix and it's working perfectly!

Replaced lid switch with wire harness. Video available on this web page. The technician said bad motor. We counted the flashes, light on top of motor, was 7 times. Diagnoses are very important, save you money! Do it more times, be sure. Biggest problem is socket size for the screws, size 6,5mm or 1/4 inch. Do not call technician or throw away your washer!...

First I removed the old part (2 screws)
Pulled off 4 wires (maybe the wrong word, I'm not a professional!
Put the new part in-turned the water on and had a stream of HOT water-yay
I had been putting this off because no one in my family had noticed (except me) and with my husband out of work it seemed like a low priority, but when my daughters came home for Christmas, they said "There's no hot water in the washing machine" so I took the plunge--I cannot believe I waited that long!
It literally took me seven minutes!

After reading how others have done this and how easy it was, I decided to give it a try. And, sure enough, it was really easy. However, one concern I had was on lifting the old agitator off from the axle using both hands. I didn't want to have the agitator come crashing into my face as I pulled up. So I put a pillow on top of the agitator.

Removed front panel, cut two wires to switch ( color coded ) snapped old switch out and installed new switch, connected wires with wire nuts. Removed two screws in lid, removed magnet and installed the new one. A caveman could do it!

When disassembling I could not remove the 1 3/4" tub nut with in house tools and had to order the spanner wrench. Almost mandatory unless you have a socket wrench.

at the bottom of the tub their is a mettal peace witch holds the tub to the transmision witch is made of zink(aka junk metal or zink+tin)witch broke stoping tub from sping the clotes dry so atfer odering the new part and nut..
and finding out that it is a LEFTHAND nut made of alumanum
taking a small drill bit 1/8" and drilling the nut to weakin it making it brake able then cleaning the treds up
the new part fit right in the tufest part was hold the trans still to get the nut on tightenuf to hold the tub

I remove three screws on top of the washer, moved the cover of the machine in order to get access to the water valve, and then desconnected the two solenoid of the valve,and removed two screws that hold the valve with the frame and installed the new valve in same order a took the old one.

I removed the front cover, then unscrewed the top to expose the top. There are two screws that hold each strap, which turns out are different sizes, so I had to use two different sockets. I also had to remove the hose & plastic tube for the bleach. Once that was done, the replacement was easy, I replaced all 4 straps, reconnected the tube for the bleach, screwed the top back on and snapped the front cover into place. This took maybe 30 minutes - and I am female!

Unplugged the washer and unscrewed the hot and cold filler hoses from the back of the machine. Removed the 6 screws holding the top together. Unscrewed the 2 water valve mounting screws. Pulled off the electrical wires from the leads. Unclipped the water feed hose clip. Reattached everything to the new water valve in reverse order. Put the screws holding the top panel in place back in.

For good measure, I also replaced the drain hose since I had noticed a little leakage there. Two screws and a little twisting and pushing was all that took.

Then I hooked everything back up and it worked like a charm. Finally, I went out to dinner with my wife on the money I saved!

After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that prevents the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.

Only took 2 days to ship. Took the screws out of the bottom rear panel to gain access to bottom of tub. Next pushed the two hidden tabs with flat screwdriver in the front to gain access to the top of tub, they are located straight inline with each side of the washer lid in seam between the top panel and the front side panel of washer. Then installed the new suspension rod and reassembled. You can find online videos that show how to disassemble appliances if you're not sure how to get them apart for repair. My first appliance repair was easy to do and saved a lot of $$$ vs paying for repair or purchasing a new unit.